The Japanese flowering cherry, usually known as the ornamental cherry, is one of the most popular decorative trees in the garden. Prunus serrulata flowers in attractive shades of pink and delights with the abundance of flowers, which are immediately reminiscent of Japanese cherry blossom festivals. In order to keep the tree flowering and in shape, it is important to prune it. Many owners of Japanese cherry blossoms wonder when and how to prune?
Why cut?
In itself, there is no need to prune the Prunus serrulata as the rose plants hold their shape quite well on their own. However, there are a few reasons that speak in favor of cutting an ornamental cherry:
size
The respective size of the ornamental cherries depends on their variety. This can range from three to eight meters. Due to the different growth forms, from narrow columns to spherical crowns to overhanging branches, the plant can quickly become too large. For example, if the tree hits the wall of the house or protrudes into the neighboring property, you should think about a cut.
growth rate
Over the years, your specimen may become slower and slower in terms of growth. Then this is a sign that they are carrying too many branches and should definitely be cut back. This can also happen if the cherry doesn't hold its shape.
old
The older the tree gets, the more important pruning measures are. The pruning protects the cherry from senescence, which can severely limit growth. Aging is also a point that can limit the growth rate. The cut gives you the vitality and thus ensures a lasting rejuvenation of your ornamental cherries.
Weak bloom
If the cherry grows too fast or too densely, it can happen that fewer flowers are formed. Since ornamental cherries can only radiate their charm through their abundance of flowers, a pruning is necessary.
health status
Cherries are extremely healthy trees with good care and a suitable location. However, twigs break off here and there, dry up or become ailing. In this case, it is necessary to refresh the crown to give new energy to the cherry.
time
When the cut is made depends on the type of growth of the ornamental cherry. The flowering period extends from March to the end of May, while large amounts of plant sap are produced over the winter. For this reason, it is recommended thinning cut direct after flowering, as cherries tend to bleed. An alternative date is the end of June to the end of July. This completely rules out winter pruning before flowering.
the topiary on the other hand should im October be performed. This helps to give the plant a certain shape. However, you must pay attention to the earliest year from which you should cut the ornamental cherries:
- Young plants after three years: gentle pruning
- then annual clearing cut
- Shape cut only from the age of four
Remember: the topiary is only necessary if you want to cut the ornamental cherry into a special shape or rejuvenate it. Otherwise, the clearing cut is completely sufficient.
tip: The further south you live, the faster the cherry blossoms. Some cherries stop blooming as early as the end of April, which puts the possible pruning date at an earlier date.
tool
Due to the strong tendency to bleed, you should high quality Use tools, because Prunus serrulata is extremely sensitive to bruises and fibers that have been torn out of the wood due to blunt blades. You will need the following tools, which are important for the different life stages of cherry trees:
- secateurs
- pruning shears
- pruning saw
- wound protection agent
Make sure that the scissors have a telescopic handle and a anvil function feature. These help to cut the branches and save you a lot of effort. Cherry branches can get quite thick, which makes scissors with anvils so valuable. Before using the scissors, you should sharpen and disinfect them to prevent bacteria or fungi from getting into the cuts.
tip: Electric scissors and saws also do a good job. Although these are significantly more expensive, they cut off the branch effectively and without further damage, which will benefit your ornamental cherry.
Thinning cut: instructions
The most important pruning of the Prunus serrulata is the annual pruning after flowering. You should not wait too long with this and it is best to do it in the first two weeks afterwards. The clearing cut takes place in two stages:
- first cut in the 3rd year after planting
- annual cut from the 4th year
first clearing cut
Proceed as follows for the first thinning cut of the ornamental cherry:
1. Check the tree for the oldest branches before cutting. You can recognize them by the bark, which is dark brown and cracked. In addition, these hang closer to the ground than others.
2. Remove these completely up to the trunk. Be careful not to cut into the stem, as these wounds will bleed easily and eventually make your flowering cherry ailing.
3. Remove side shoots from ornamental cherries that are heavily branched. These can also hinder growth. You should also remove bent branches.
4. After the cut wound closure agent apply and dispose of with green waste. The cut off plant parts would take too long to rot on the compost.
Annual average from the 4th year
From Year 4, follow this guide:
1. With this cut, you need to trim the ornamental cherry like this gently clear as possible. From the fourth year, she recovers only poorly from extensive pruning measures.
2. Proceed here in the same way as with the first thinning cut. Especially the old shoots must be removed.
3. An exception are particularly large ornamental cherries. If your specimen has a spreading crown, you must first make the classic thinning cut and then cut the crown back to a branch structure. Fresh branches can then sprout over this until the next year, which reduces the weight of the crown.
4. To do this, simply trim back any branches that weren't previously removed. Trim these back to the old wood, but never cut into it.
5. Finally wound closure agent use for the interfaces on the trunk and dispose of plant remains.
Shape cutting: instructions
The shape cut is, as described above, not absolutely necessary. However, you can aim for a specific shape that the tree will take on and keep over the years. You will need the same tools for this one, but proceed as follows:
1. First choose a shape. Flat crowns, columns and spheres are particularly popular.
2. Now select your desired shape and height for flat crowns and balls. Make a plan, preferably on paper, to keep track of the shape. The altitude determines from when the crown should start. Mark this point with a piece of cloth or string.
3. Now cut back the relevant branches until they are in the right shape. You always should over a bud start and shorten the branch vertically. Don't cut into the old wood here either. All branches are then completely removed up to the mark.
4. In the case of a column shape, do not determine the height, as this starts directly from the bottom. Here you simply shorten all side shoots to a desired length, preferably ten to twenty centimeters. Over the years, the shape corresponds to a column and no longer to a classic crown.
5. Larger wounds with wound closure agent treat and dispose of green waste.
tip: Ornamental cherry varieties with drooping crowns are not topiary. However, you should shorten branches that are too long if they come too close to the ground or remove wildly branched ones so that the crown can be thinned out.