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Can the five finger bush be cut? And if so, what's the best way to go about it? Many hobby gardeners who want to cultivate a Potentilla fruticosa in their own garden ask themselves these questions. The detailed article provides precise answers and many practical tips.
five finger bush
The five finger bush naturally grows more in width than in height. Accordingly, it makes sense not only to focus on the top when cutting, but also on the sides. Although, according to several experts, the plant does not need regular pruning, it is still advisable to prune it a little year after year and to do radical work at longer intervals - especially since the cinquefoil is extremely capable of regeneration. The plant expert explains in detail which reasons clearly speak in favor of pruning the Potentilla fruticosa and what should be considered.
General info
The five-finger shrub is a typical summer bloomer. This means that it always forms its blossoms on this year's - i.e. on the "new" - wood. This is a great advantage for the hobby gardener, as the fact means that it is generally not a problem to radically trim the plant down to the old wood. Nevertheless, one should always exercise caution so as not to damage the beautiful plant in the long term. The most important questions about cutting the Potentilla fruticosa are clarified below.
To cut
Why cut?
There are various reasons for regularly shortening the finger bush and sometimes cutting it back more extensively. The main aim is to prevent the noble plant from becoming bald or aging.
Tip: In the case of the five-fingered shrub, the flowers form primarily on new shoots, so the old ones should be removed again and again. Otherwise the plant threatens to become bare from below, because the new shoots logically only grow if the old ones have given way beforehand.
cutting measures
In addition to the consistent implementation of the smaller pruning measures every year, it is advisable to carry out intensive rejuvenation cuts at longer intervals. These also help to avoid the otherwise unavoidable baldness.
Tip: If you value a five-finger shrub that blooms magnificently year after year, you have to give your plant a radical pruning when the time comes.
Incidentally, the pruning work not only ensures that the Potentilla fruticosa does not become bald or senile. In fact, the measures also cause an even denser growth. There is no need to worry about a reduced willingness to flower. The cinquefoil loses nothing in this respect.
Notice: The subtle and lush cutting is recommended for every variety without exception and also for every type of cultivation of the plant. Anyone who keeps the five-finger shrub as a hedge plant ensures that the measures always ensure an even, beautiful shape. Even a sprawling ground cover can be cut back to achieve a permanently perfect look. Not to forget that the respective shrub thanks the hobby gardener after the (radical) pruning with a particularly rich bloom. The young shoots bloom much more luxuriantly than the woody old shoots.
pruning
Extensive pruning may still be necessary after a pest infestation. This step is often the last chance to save the plant. If necessary, the shrub can be cut back far into the old wood. If all goes well, the crowns will rebuild. Even after an extensive shortening to just above the ground, the five-fingered shrub usually drives out again reliably. This is mainly due to the exceptional regenerative ability of the plant.
Tip: In order to encourage the young cinquefoil to grow densely and bushily right from the start, it is worth trimming the shoot tips slightly with hedge trimmers immediately after planting in spring.
Summary of reasons for cutting:
- Prevent balding and aging
- encourage denser, bushier growth
- Preserve the shape of the plant permanently
- Rescue after a pest infestation
cutting time
when to cut
The annual pruning work is ideally carried out after flowering in late summer or autumn. The plant is only slightly pruned. Dead, diseased, old and/or disturbing branches must be removed.
As far as the radical cut is concerned, an interval of two to three years is recommended. Basically, you can cut the cinquefoil in spring or in autumn. However, the first variant is the preferred one. After a cut in spring, more precisely in March, the plant usually recovers more quickly from the weakened shoots.
Summary of the timing for the cutting work:
- annual slight cuts after flowering in autumn
- every two to three years radical pruning in spring (March)
types of cuts
Regular cutting measures
During the regular pruning work, which is carried out annually, weak (old, dead, diseased or disturbing) shoots in particular should give way. You just have to be careful not to catch any new shoots. Then the chances are good that the plant will grow more compact and bloom more luxuriantly in the future.
The measures at a glance:
- Cut off unwanted shoots immediately at the point of attachment
- Cut dead old shoots back into healthy wood
Tip: This work is just as useful for hedges of the shrub as it is for ground cover varieties. In this way, the plant is strategically well thinned out and kept in its beautiful shape.
Attention, if you ONLY do the regular pruning work, you cannot prevent the cinquefoil from becoming bald in the long run. That is why it is so important to also comply with the makeover cut when the time comes.
Radical pruning or rejuvenation cut
There are various recommendations with regard to radical pruning or rejuvenation.
- Cut branches about ten centimeters above the ground
- Shorten the shrub by about a third (keep two thirds)
Tip: We recommend the first variant to initiate a clear "break". Since the plant will sprout again within a very short time (and much more than before), this is without a doubt the more efficient approach.
After the radical pruning, the cinquefoil takes some getting used to, but you don't need to get used to this sight, as new shoots will appear very soon.
Caution, as a rule, the Potentilla fruticosa is insensitive to radical cutting. With a weak or over-aged shrub, it is still important to cut carefully. A cut that is too deep into the old wood could lead to the plant dying.
Summary of the “cutting techniques”:
- with annual cuts remove old, dead, diseased and disturbing shoots
- for radical cuts every two to three years, shorten the plant to 10 cm
- be careful with weak or over-mature shrubs (risks of dying)
cutting tool
Cut with what?
- a high-quality hedge trimmer or pruning shears is usually sufficient for annual trimming
- for the radical cuts every two to three years, only very sharp scissors and/or saws should be used
Important: After cutting back, treat larger cut surfaces with a suitable wound sealant (e.g. tree wax). In addition, thoroughly clean and disinfect the cutting tools, especially after cutting back due to a pest infestation.
Summary of the cutting tools:
- high-quality hedge or pruning shears for annual cuts
- Only use sharp scissors/saws for the radical cuts
- Thoroughly clean and disinfect tools afterwards