The bougainvillea (also bougainvillea or triplet) is a subtropical plant that enchants us with its play of colors in summer. The bright colors do not come from the flowers, but from the three bracts surrounding them. Botanically, the bougainvillea belongs to the magic flower family. The Bougainville does not make any special demands on care. However, it needs to be trimmed regularly. However, since it tolerates pruning well, the pruning can also be carried out by less experienced plant lovers.
To cut
The Bougainville is not only one of the plants that tolerate cutting, but it can also be cut at different times. As a rule, the shrub or tree is cut in spring, summer and autumn. This gives the bougainvillea enough time to recover between trimmings. And it can close the cut surfaces.
A good time for pruning is in autumn or spring. However, the spring cut must be carried out before the plant begins to sprout again. If this time is missed, cutting should be avoided in spring, otherwise the Bougainvillea will not develop any flowers. Likewise, if the spring is cut too late, the colorful bracts, which are the real attraction of the plant, must be dispensed with. If no pruning could be carried out in the spring, it should definitely be pruned in the autumn, since the summer pruning is mainly used to keep the bougainvillea in shape. That's why you don't cut too much in summer.
fall pruning
All bougainvillea species cultivated by us originally come from subtropical regions. That's why we keep the non-hardy plant in a bucket, and it has to be moved to the "warm" winter quarters (at 10 degrees Celsius) before the first frost. The autumn cut is therefore best done before the move.
The aim of the autumn pruning is:
- to "shrink" the plant
- the removal of the long whip shoots
- cleaning and cutting
winter quarters
place in winter quarters
Many plant lovers know the problem: no matter how well you plan, the winter quarters for the balcony and terrace plants are actually always too small. That is why the autumn cut of the triplet flower can also be done for pragmatic reasons. The plant loses height and width and thus needs less space in the winter quarters. Bougainvillea flowers and bracts grow on so-called whip shoots. These shoots grow very long, which pleases us in the summer during flowering. Because they make the plant look so colorful and lush. Since they are more of an obstacle in winter due to their length, they are shortened.
Personal experience: Shortening does not mean a radical cut back. Even Bougainvillea, which tolerates pruning, does not cope well with such a drastic measure. In addition, the bougainvillea is trimmed. By cutting out the plant becomes lighter inside. In this way, branches and twigs inside the plant get more light and air. The latter also prevents infestation by pests during the winter, which like to nest in very dense shoots.
cut time
Time for fall pruning
Since bougainvillea needs some time to recover from pruning, don't wait until the last minute of the outdoor season to do fall pruning. Because the cold that enters the open spots on the plant can also damage it. In addition, a rainy day should not be chosen for the cut. It is best to cut the plant on a sunny day when cold temperatures are not expected at night.
Tip: The later the fall pruning, the later flowering will start in the coming year.
cutting instructions
Since the bougainvillea forgives many pruning mistakes, even plant lovers with less experience with pruning should get along well. The right tool is important for every cut.
- sharp and clean secateurs
- be sure to clean before cutting
- Disinfect pruning shears if plants with pest infestation have been cut beforehand
The individual cuts must be strong. Each branch should be severed with a single cut. A smooth, vertical cut is best for the plant. This keeps the cut as small as possible. Less rainwater gets on the wound. And the plant can close the open spot more quickly. Because every cut itself is a gateway for pests. In addition, the plant is slightly weakened, which also makes it more susceptible to pests.
Tip: If a cut is not so precise, make another cut a little further down. Under no circumstances should you simply tear off the branch or twig. This is a serious injury from the plant's point of view.
The triplet does not need a special wound closure. If all cuts are successful, the plant heals itself. That is, the cut surfaces dry out and become lignified.
shoots
main and secondary drives
In the case of shrubs, trees and climbing plants, a distinction is made between main and side shoots. Main shoots are always thicker than side shoots. These must not be cut off as they form the healthy substance of the plant. Side shoots can be cut back more, but not more than half.
whip shoots and young shoots
To encourage flowering for the coming year, any young shoots or spurs with faded flowers should be pruned before moving to winter quarters. Because no flowers will form on these often very long shoots in the coming year. They are usually only developed by the plant on the short shoots.
deadwood
Dead wood or deadwood should be removed during fall pruning. Dead wood does not develop new shoots and appears dry and arid in appearance. These branches often break off almost by themselves. When cutting off deadwood, you cut down into the living wood so that the plant can heal the wound.
Tip: Living wood, unlike dead wood, has a green color under the bark. When in doubt, nibble off some of the bark and have a look. If no juicy green appears, it is deadwood.