The camellia is an Asian beauty that makes a guest appearance with us. As a small plant or already an impressive shrub. In this country, however, it often only lives in a bucket. The large, brightly colored flowers are their adornment. That's why we love them. Healthy, shiny green leaves are part of the party as permanent companions. Now and then, she voluntarily exchanges a few of them. But what happens when more copies fall?
Camellia loses leaves
Old age lies in the camellia, bot. Camellia, in the genes. It can reach several hundred years under optimal conditions. As an evergreen shrub, it does not separate from its foliage even in winter. Nevertheless, not a single sheet accompanies her from youth to old age. The shiny green leaves are granted a comparatively short life. Each leaf remains on the plant for about three years until it is shed. After all, the new shoot needs space. This swap goes hand in hand and doesn't detract from the Camellia's looks. However, if she loses more leaves than new specimens follow, something is wrong. It can quickly become bare and if the leaves continue to fall, it will soon be left with bare branches. But no plant can live without leaves.
causes
If the camellia loses leaves but continues to maintain a dense crown, there is no need to worry. However, if the shrub becomes thinner and thinner, the causes must be researched as quickly as possible. The plant can only get the right help if the reason for the "unplanned" loss of leaves has been unequivocally discovered. Don't wait too long, because the sooner you act, the more hands you will be able to get him. These are the possible causes of severe leaf loss:
- too dry wintering
- Casting error
- Frost damage to the roots
- Altered soil pH
- relocation
Overwintering too dry
Only in mild regions can some varieties survive the winter outside. That is why camellias, especially Camellia japonica, which is popular with us, are brought to winter quarters during the cold season. Camellias like it light and cool to 12 °C. However, such premises are not always available or do not meet other requirements. For example, it needs a humidity of at least 60%. Otherwise, a specimen may soon lose a large part of its leaves. The air in them can dry out quickly, especially if it is placed in heated rooms for reasons of space.
Possible solutions
First find out how high the humidity actually is in the winter quarters. While it is easier for us to estimate the air temperature, we have to take the help of a hygrometer here. If the suspicion of insufficient humidity is confirmed, you can proceed as follows:
- move to a more suitable winter quarters
- alternatively spray regularly with water
- but not dripping wet
- otherwise this can promote fungal diseases
tip: If you don't have a hygrometer, you can order one online. It is usually delivered the very next day. Simple models also cost less than 10 euros.
Casting error
Watering this Asian beauty is an activity that requires her owner to show good instincts. Your soil must never dry out completely. However, it must not be oversupplied with the precious liquid at any time. Their roots don't like being surrounded by waterlogging. But the camellia does not lose its leaves immediately when the soil is waterlogged or dry. Only with a time lag will she react to an unbalanced and inadequate water supply with leaf loss. The connection with casting can therefore easily be overlooked.
Possible solutions
How the problem is solved depends on whether the camellia was watered or has been dry for a while. It is also possible that she regularly experiences both states alternately. Here are the first steps:
- Water the dried-out root ball immediately and abundantly
- or pot in a bucket of water
- then drain well
- or pour away excess water from the coaster
- Do not continue to water the overwatered plant for the time being
- repot into new substrate if the soil is too wet
- pay attention to a drainage layer
- examine the root ball for rotten spots
- cut them off completely
From now on, the watering behavior must also be changed. That means never letting the soil dry out, but also never causing waterlogging. During flowering, the camellia needs more water than usual. In the winter quarters, water only when the top layer of soil dries.
tip: It is generally recommended not to water the camellia with a watering can, but to dip it in a bucket of water. The water that then emerges is promptly poured away.
Frost damage to the roots
Frost damage to the roots can also lead to leaf fall if this means that the supply to the plant is no longer running smoothly. The causes of such damage can be the following:
- shrubs planted out have faced a severe winter
- this also applies to tub specimens that have been overwintered outside
- the protective measures may have been insufficient
- or they were removed too early
- overwintered camellia was removed from winter quarters too early
- it may have gotten late frosts
Possible solutions
The frozen roots are not recognized at first because they are hidden in the ground. The consequences of frostbite only become apparent in spring, when the plant comes to life again. Since the plant can no longer be well cared for due to the reduced root mass, it should be cut back a good deal. Then the pot is placed in a warm place.
Altered soil pH
Camellias like acidic soil. Most owners are aware of this. That is why this preference is fulfilled when they are planted. However, soil pH can change over time. If an intolerable value is reached, the camellia will lose more and more leaves. The change in the soil towards the alkaline range is often caused unintentionally and unnoticed by the following care mistakes:
- watering with calcareous water
- too much fertilizer
- Use of an unsuitable fertilizer
Possible solutions
Luckily for a plant that thrives in a container, the pH problem is easy to fix. For this, the plant must be repotted immediately.
- Take the plant out of the bucket
- Rinse the root ball under lukewarm water
- the entire soil should be removed
- Remove soil residue from the bucket
- Plant camellia again
- use new, acidic substrate
- stop fertilizing for the time being
- regularly measure the pH value
- pour with decalcified water
- later use a liquid fertilizer for acidic soil
A large camellia bush in the garden can hardly be repotted. However, you may be able to swap the top layer of soil for acidic soil. All other recommendations regarding fertilizing and watering must now also be observed for these specimens.
tip: A large camellia plant is unwieldy for one person. Some branches can snap off too easily when repotting or washing off the soil. Be sure to get help with this project.
relocation
A camellia in a pot periodically moves due to lack of winter hardiness. It is usually the case that she stands outside in the garden or on the balcony during the warm season. During the cold season, on the other hand, she is accommodated in a frost-free quarters. However, a change of location is associated with a change in temperature. The intensity of the light and the duration of exposure to the sun can also change. With high and abrupt fluctuations, the plant may lose a lot of leaves.
Possible solutions
When changing location, always keep an eye on the plant to discover early on if you don't like it. It prefers bright locations without too much direct sun. The greatest danger is when the plant moves out of its winter quarters. She's not used to sunshine anymore and can't take it at full strength right away. She needs our help to slowly get used to it. Put the plant back in a location where it is not constantly exposed to the blazing sun. Also, remove any leaves that are already damaged. After that, gradually acclimate them to more sun by letting them stay in the sun longer each day.