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The ivy (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular plant. It is popular mainly because of its air-purifying properties and the decorative aspect of its leaf colour. The arum plant is one of the plants that only allows one type of propagation: by cuttings. There are two different methods to choose from. What you need for this and how you can easily multiply the ivy is described in detail in the following instructions.
The propagation of an Epipremnum aureum can theoretically be tackled all year round. In midsummer, the sometimes very high temperatures are not advantageous for the cultivation of cuttings. In winter, the dry heating air and correspondingly shorter days could become a problem. If the autumn is rainy and gray, the same applies. Therefore, spring between the end of April and mid-May is best. Then the cuttings benefit from longer daylight and can thrive more vigorously during the growing season. Above all, the ivy needs bright daylight longer, the more marbled its leaves are.
In order to increase the chances of successful propagation, only suitable cuttings should be used.
It is essential for propagation that the mother plant is strong and healthy. A hint of weakness is enough and a cutting would not be good enough to tackle. If the mother plant has been transplanted shortly before, you should wait before taking the cuttings, because repotting always means stress for the plant, even if this is not always visually noticeable.
head or stem cuttings
A distinction is made between head and stem cuttings. Top cuttings are taken from the top part of the plant. They basically have shoot tips and leaves. A suitable stem cutting also has a shoot tip, but no leaves should have formed yet. Here the expert speaks of a "dormant bud". Stem cuttings are part of the stem/sprout axis. Experience has shown that problems often arise when propagating through stem cuttings because they are not tackled properly, more difficultly or not at all. The head cutting offers significantly higher chances of success.
- must not have flowers (as a houseplant, ivy usually do not flower anyway)
- is strong and healthy
- has at least three to four leaf nodes
- has aerial roots (does not have to be present, but promotes root formation)
tip: Ivy bushes do not branch very well. In order to achieve a denser overall picture, you can simply plant several young plants in one pot.
Cut cuttings - instructions
If the right cutting is found on an ivy, the propagation is carried out as follows:
- Cut off shoots with a length between eight and 15 centimeters
- use long shoots for multiple cuttings
- Divide this into several cuttings, each with three leaf nodes of the above lengths
- if leaves are present, cut them off at the bottom of each section
- Cut the end at an angle where the roots should form (ensures improved moisture absorption)
- It is essential to use a sharp and disinfected knife for cutting
notice: The leaves of ivy are poisonous to humans and animals. After cutting, they should never be left lying around, but must be disposed of immediately so that they do not pose a danger, especially not to children.
In order for a cutting to become a new, independent plant, roots must form on the cuttings. You can achieve this by multiplying in a pot with soil or with the help of a water-filled glass.
If the cutting(s) are ready, you can put them in the ground. The exception is the stem cuttings. Because this should dry slightly before inserting it into the ground. For planting, the following procedure and details should be adhered to:
- use special potting soil (is low in nutrients and ideal for rooting)
- use a sufficiently large pot with a drainage hole for excess moisture
- Fill the pot with potting soil
- Stick the cutting with the beveled end about three centimeters into the ground
- Fill some more soil around the "trunk" and press down lightly (for more stability)
- Water the soil evenly (a "soft" spray is ideal so that the soil is not washed away)
- Put a translucent plastic bag over the cuttings and pot (ensures continuous and longer-lasting moisture)
- ideal location: bright and warm at around 20 °C - avoid direct sunlight
- First root formation after about four to six days
After inserting into the growing soil, the ideal care is as follows:
- Open foil for oxygen exchange at least five minutes every two days
- Foil opening is ideal for possible subsequent moistening of the soil
- Use low-lime water for washing
- make sure that the foil does not prevent the cuttings from growing
- Always allow excess moisture to drain
- If the saucer is used, remove any water quickly
- if roots show up in front of or through the pot's drainage hole, it's time to transplant into regular potting soil
- then care takes place, as with adult ivy (exception: fertilization is only given from the second year of life)
Multiply in a glass of water
A very simple and easy to use method for rooting is to use a glass of water. This is how it works:
- Fill the transparent glass with lime-free water
- Calculate one cutting per glass of water
- Adding a root activator promotes root formation (a knife point is sufficient)
- Put cuttings in the water with the cut end
- Ideally, the water level should be at least one knot higher by around two centimetres
- Location: bright and warm at a temperature of around 20 °C (window sills on east or west windows are ideal)
- Formation of the first fine roots after about five to six days
In order to create the best conditions for root formation and growth into a young plant, appropriate care is required:
- change water every two days
- as long as no roots are visible, add new root activator to the fresh water if necessary
- When the fine roots branch, plant the cuttings/young plant in the substrate
- Roots should be a maximum of three centimeters long for planting - two centimeters are ideal
- if they are longer, cut roots to ideal length before planting
- be careful when planting - the delicate roots of the offshoots are very sensitive
- further care as for adult ivy - but fertilization is only carried out from the second year after propagation
notice: Make sure that you always place the end of a cutting in the soil/water glass that was in a lower growth position on the mother plant/on the entire shoot - i.e. always the lower end, as this is the only place where roots can form.