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A lawn can become a bit unsightly over the years. Poor maintenance also contributes to this. There are different ways to renew the lawn. We present one of them to you.
Lawn restoration options
Not only moss, but also bare spots or poor growth of the grass plants can make a lawn in the garden appear quite unsightly. Sometimes it is enough to reseed or remove moss by scarifying. However, these measures may not always help to make the lawn shine in a lush green again. Then all that remains is to create a new lawn.
There are various options here:
- dig up the area
- stripping the lawn or
- cover
Digging up the lawn proves to be the most effective, even if it requires a lot of muscle power and sweat will flow. The advantages of this method are that all above-ground plant parts and roots remain in the ground. These rot there and thus generate new nutrients. However, the microorganisms in the soil are also disturbed when digging up, but not as sustainably as when the lawn is completely removed. It is important with this method that all weeds standing on the surface are brought deep into the soil. Otherwise, these can quickly germinate and the area is completely covered with it.
Tip: When working on larger areas, the use of a motor hoe often proves to be effective.
Digging step by step
When creating a new lawn by digging up the old one, there are a few things to consider. Thorough preparation and implementation are the be-all and end-all. Ultimately, you decide on later success. It shouldn't just be dug straight away. We will show you step by step how to dig up the old lawn and then work on the area to get a beautiful new lawn. However, it also requires a lot of patience. Before the actual work begins, it is advisable to mow high lawns to a short blade height. This makes digging much easier. Then you can start:
- Soil should be dry
- Loosen the turf a few centimeters deep with a spade
- remove it horizontally from the floor
- store on compost heaps with roots up
- thereby preventing the spread of weeds
- Fill the bottom with a five centimeter layer of sand
- most suitable washed, fine-grained sand
- Grain between 0 and 2 mm ideal
- excellent low-lime quartz sand or simple play sand
- then dig deep as a spade
Notice: Storing the sods with the roots up on the compost serves to rot faster. Organic materials such as kitchen waste or leaves can also be applied between the individual layers.
After breaking up the ground to create a new lawn, the roughest work is already done. However, some things still need to be done:
- Lightly crumble the earth with a digging fork
- larger clods of earth break apart
- remove any stones, roots or other objects
- Remove 15 cm from the floor
- upgrade the earth
- mix in some sand and large amounts of mature compost
- Leveling of the floor after a few days
- Using a lawn roller
- If necessary, roll the floor smooth several times if there are major bumps
Tip: A lawn roller must be filled with water to have the appropriate weight. Alternatively, a long wooden board or a wooden pallet can be used for rolling. These are pulled on a rope in even tracks over the surface of the earth.
Best time in autumn
Before the lawn can be sown, the tilled soil must settle. Normally, a time of at least three to four weeks is scheduled for this, then the soil is compacted and there are no more cavities. In any case, it would be advantageous if the soil was tilled in autumn. During the winter months, the ground can then "stand still", in other words the earth can settle down in peace. Other advantages would be:
- by frost killing of still existing grass plants
- and also from weeds
- Prevention of any unevenness in the future lawn
In early spring, it is then necessary to level out all existing unevenness again and level the surface repeatedly. Of course, the soil can also be worked in early spring. However, the soil must then be given time to set.
Tip: It is easy to test whether the soil is already ready for sowing by stepping on the appropriate area with one foot. However, shoes with a flat sole should be worn. If the shoe print is not deeper than one centimeter, you can start sowing.
Sow right
After the soil has been prepared to create a new lawn, all that remains is sowing. Here, too, there are a few things to consider so that it turns green in the end.
lawn seed
- Selection of a suitable lawn mixture such as shaded lawn, play lawn, etc.
- Prepare seedbed
- loosen up the surface again a bit
- then roll lightly
- Floor temperature must be at least 10 °C
- Temperature important for germination
- Application of phosphorus fertilizer in the longitudinal direction of the area
- Spreading the seed in the transverse direction
- promotes better growth
- best use of a spreader
- Application must be uninterrupted and even
- then work the seeds lightly into the soil with a rake
- no deeper than 0.5 cm
- Lawn is a light germinator
- Roll lightly for better ground contact
- not too tight
- keep the surface moist for the following four weeks
- possible use of lawn sprinklers
- Irrigate up to five times a day for 10 minutes each time
- Avoid puddles and rivulets
- after six weeks administration of long-term fertilizer
The first lawn cut after laying out the new lawn should be done when the stalks are eight to ten centimeters high. The lawn should not be cut back deeper than five centimetres. Excessive stress on the lawn should also be avoided in the first year.
Tip: Before laying a new lawn, it is advisable to carry out a soil analysis. For this purpose, soil samples are taken from 10 to 15 different locations and then thoroughly mixed. The investigation takes place in the laboratory and information is given regarding the type of soil, the pH value, humus and nutrient content, as well as fertilizer recommendations.
Using a motor hoe
A few more words about using a motor hoe for tilling the soil. There are different models in terms of size, weight and drive. Smaller hoes are powered by electricity and larger ones by petrol. In principle, there are two types, namely motor hoes with a hoe spur or with a cleaver. With these, the digging depth can be set individually. Of course, working with a motor hoe is not as strenuous as digging by hand. Handling is relatively easy:
tiller
- no removal of the old lawn necessary
- Simply guide the hoe over the appropriate area
- always in straight rows
- loosens deep soil
- but no reversal of the layers of earth
- Lawn plants go deep into the earth
- there rotting and supply of new nutrients
The disadvantage here, however, is that extraordinarily stubborn weeds such as couch grass, horsetail or goutweed are not removed, but penetrate deep into the soil and are distributed there. If you wait too long before sowing, it can happen that these weeds take over the field.
Notice: When using a motor hoe, there is an increased intervention in the health of the soil. The necessary microorganisms in the soil get deep into the lowest layers of the earth. It takes a long time for equilibrium to be restored.