Lavender is known for its colorful and intensely fragrant flowers. To keep it that way for many years, it has to be pruned regularly. But can you also cut already woody lavender?
In a nutshell
- Lavender is a subshrub that becomes woody with age
- lignified usually only below
- Regular pruning protects against senescence, baldness and excessive woodiness
- Rejuvenation is possible, but not always promising
- the older and more woody the lavender, the less chance it has of recovering
Best time to cut
Basically, lavender (Lavandula) must be cut every year in spring, around the beginning to mid-April, as long as no more frost is to be expected. A second cut in summer immediately after flowering may result in renewed flowering in autumn. However, this requires a regular cut. It is definitely not advisable to cut back in the fall.
With lavender that has already become bare and woody, there is usually no avoiding vigorous cutting. Spring is also the best time to do this. However, it is no guarantee that the plant will continue to grow afterwards. Very old and fallen apart shrubs with woody, sparse main shoots can usually no longer be saved even with a strong rejuvenation cut. But trying is known to make wise.
Notice: Dividing a heavily woody lavender is also not recommended, as it will die in most cases. If there is an option to take cuttings before pruning, then you should do that if the plant cannot make it.
Rejuvenation Guide
First step
- limited to the still green area
- Cut back all shoots that are still green in February
- Cut it in half or two-thirds
- cut green, broom-like heads in the same way
- Remove dead shoots from root to tip
- it is best to cut it close to the ground
Due to the cut only in the green area, there is a build-up of juice below the interfaces. This in turn increases the likelihood that sleeping eyes in the old wood will sprout again. A final fertilizer application of compost and horn shavings can support further growth.
Second step
- allow newly formed shoots to grow first
- only cut in the spring of the following year
- derive woody and senile branches
- on a lower young side shoot
- Start the cut at the fork of the old and new wood
- never cut into woody parts
- Lavender will not sprout again
- remaining cones dry up
- can then be removed
- fertilize after cutting
If lavender has not been cut for several years, it is usually already bare and lignified deep down. Then you should exercise caution when rejuvenating, extend the rejuvenation over several years and only proceed in small steps. However, you can also harm the plants in this way.
The right tool
Cutting woody lavender can be a real feat. If the cutting tools are not sharp enough, frayed cuts are the result, which attracts pathogens. So-called one-hand garden shears are ideal for individual lavender bushes, and two-hand hedge shears, ideally with shock-absorbing handles, are ideal for lavender hedges. A good alternative are standard rose scissors with stainless steel blades.
Tip: However, the further the lignification has progressed, the less likely it is that you will actually get lignified lavender to sprout again, no matter which of these tools you choose.
frequently asked Questions
Can lavender be cut into the old wood?Don't cut into the old wood. This could mean a total failure. Only diseased and dead branches can be completely removed.
Is it possible to prevent heavy lignification?The best way to do this is through regular pruning. In spring, before the first new shoots appear, the plant is cut back by at least half. This stimulates the formation of many new shoots and what has been cut off can no longer lignify.
Are pruning measures recommended in summer?This is particularly useful in regions with longer summers, around mid to late July. Here, lavender can flower a second time a year. In rather cold locations, this usually does not work.