The snapdragon is a classic in the home garden. It shines with its flowering strength, its diverse flower colors and the unusual flower shapes. With proper care in the right location, snapdragons bloom from spring through fall.

In a nutshell

  • easy to care for and undemanding under optimal conditions
  • flowers in the right place from June to the end of September
  • suitable for bed and tub planting
  • in our latitudes usually annual

site conditions

The snapdragon (Antirrhinum) feels most comfortable in sunny locations without blazing midday sun. In the light penumbra, the formation of flowers is somewhat reduced and the flower colors are also less intense. The place should be sheltered from the wind, because high-growing varieties in particular could buckle in stronger winds.

Notice: To prevent the stems from buckling, it is advisable to stabilize them with small supports.

soil condition

  • permeable, lime-free, nutrient- and humus-rich soil
  • and fresh to moderately moist
  • pH neutral to slightly acidic
  • short-term drought is well tolerated
  • Loosen up heavy substrates accordingly
  • by mixing in compost, sand or fine gravel
  • additional drainage made of gravel or expanded clay is recommended

Notice: In order to maintain the permeability of the soil, it is advisable to work it regularly with a hoe.

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum

planting

In the bed

Planting time is around April. Before planting, the soil should be thoroughly loosened, freed from weeds and heavy soils should be prepared accordingly.

  • dig the planting pit after loosening
  • about twice as deep and wide as the pad
  • some high-quality potting soil in the planting hole
  • for better branching of the root, shorten it slightly
  • then insert plant
  • The upper edge of the bale should be level with the surface of the earth
  • attach supports to tall varieties
  • fill up with excavated earth, press on earth, water on

Regardless of the growth height, distances of 15-35 cm are recommended. An exception is the snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), here it should be 50-60 cm.

In the pot

  • Small varieties very well suited for container planting
  • Water the root ball before planting or repotting
  • Drainage hole in the bucket indispensable
  • Expanded clay as a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot
  • then a structurally stable potting soil
  • mix with some sand if necessary
  • Plant in the middle
  • fill up with substrate, press on, water on

The right care

pour

Watering is an important part of care, because too much water is just as little tolerated as too much lime. Otherwise, the snapdragon is quite frugal. Once the plant has established itself at its location, you only water it when it is hot and dry. If the upper centimeters of the soil are dry, you can pour again. Unlike bedding plants, container plants need to be watered regularly.

Tip: It is best to alternate between lime-free and slightly calcareous water.

Fertilize

For lush flowering and healthy growth, this plant needs sufficient nutrients. It is best to fertilize when planting or generally in the spring with an organic fertilizer, such as compost and horn shavings. Both have a lasting effect, promote soil life and humus formation. If the soil is already rich in nutrients, you can possibly do without fertilizers completely. Potted specimens are fertilized with a liquid fertilizer about every two days.

To cut

Actually, you don't have to cut snapdragons. Nevertheless, shortening the shoot tips can promote bushier growth. To stimulate the formation of lateral shoots, you can cut out the central shoot after flowering. If you don't want to harvest seeds for the next year, faded flowers should be removed regularly. Trimming also has the benefit of new buds coming up. No pruning should be done in the fall.

hibernate

How hardy the snapdragon is depends on the breed and the prevailing winter temperatures. Most commercial strains are purpose-bred F1 hybrids. Their lifespan is usually limited to one season. The effort of hibernation is not worth it.

  • different the snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
  • tolerates temperatures down to minus ten degrees
  • with appropriate protection perennial flowers
  • Do not trim or cut back plants in the fall
  • serve as protection against cold and wind
  • usually not sufficient as winter protection
  • additional cover with brushwood or fallen leaves
  • remove as soon as no more night frosts are to be expected

Potted snapdragons are placed in a sheltered spot on a polystyrene base. The pot is wrapped with fleece, jute, reed or coconut mats and the root area is covered with dry leaves or straw.

Notice: The air should be able to circulate well under the respective cover in order to avoid mold growth.

Propagation by seed

Prefer indoors

You should dry your own seeds for about six to eight weeks before sowing. In order to increase the germination rate and achieve a small growth advantage, it is advisable to start them indoors.

Snapdragon seeds
  • Place seeds in a bowl of moist, humus-rich soil
  • in the fridge for two to three weeks
  • then place the seed pot in a sunny spot
  • at temperatures around 21 degrees
  • cover with translucent film
  • Poke small holes in the foil
  • Germination time between one and four weeks
  • Prick out from a size of five centimeters

Moving to the bed

  • It is better to transplant seedlings into the bed from April after the ice saints
  • note the ideal location for snapdragons
  • if necessary, harden a few days beforehand
  • Loosen the soil well at the future location
  • remove larger stones
  • Planting distances of small varieties at least 15 cm
  • cover with fleece if there is a threat of late frost

Sow directly

  • Press small planting holes in the ground in the cold frame
  • three to five seeds in each planting hole
  • only lightly cover with soil (light germinators)
  • Water carefully, if possible with a watering attachment
  • in the cold frame singularize to six to eight centimetres
  • Transplant to permanent place from April

Notice: As cold germs, snapdragon seeds survive the winter in the ground. With a bit of luck, new seedlings will appear next spring without any action. This also depends on the location of the snapdragons.

Diseases

mildew

  • Infestation with powdery mildew or downy mildew
  • in the genuine light spots on the upper side of the leaves
  • in the case of false infestation on the underside of leaves
  • in both cases remove and dispose of affected parts
  • Treatment with a mixture of five parts whole milk and eight parts water
  • Pour mixture into a spray bottle
  • spray affected plants once a week
  • treat with fungicide if necessary in case of severe infestation

snapdragon rust

An infestation shows up in late summer and autumn with yellowish spots and dark brown, dusty pustules under the leaves. Combating it is difficult, so preventive measures such as planting that is not too dense and good ventilation are all the more important. The plants can dry off quickly, and the risk of rust fungi is averted. Affected parts should be cut off and diseased plants cut back.

root rot

Root rot is caused by too much moisture over a long period of time. The leaves fade, there are no flowers, and the plant eventually dies. You should also take preventive action by paying attention to your watering behavior, because affected plants can usually not be saved. Potted specimens can possibly be saved if they are immediately repotted in dry substrate and not watered for the time being.

pests

Occasionally an aphid infestation can occur, usually associated with ants feeding on the honeydew of the aphids. The shoot tips and leaves curl, dry up and die. A brew made from nettles, for example, which is poured over the plants, is suitable for combating this. Natural enemies such as ladybird or lacewing larvae and hoverflies are also helpful. The use of insecticides should only be considered in exceptional cases, i.e. in the case of a very severe infestation. Then it is usually better to dispose of affected plants completely.

frequently asked Questions

Is the snapdragon annual or perennial?

In this country it is usually only cultivated for one or two years, so that it is only partially hardy. In fact, it is a perennial plant. Nevertheless, there are some more robust varieties that can also spend the winter with us in very mild locations and with appropriate protection.

What if the seeds don't germinate?

If there is no germination, this may be due to a location that is too dark or a substrate that is too dry. A location on a south-facing window is ideal. The soil should be slightly moist during the entire germination period.

Are these plants poisonous?

All parts are non-toxic. The delicate flowers are even edible. They are aromatically sweet, can be eaten raw, but also go very well with desserts and sweet dishes.

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