One could almost describe the oleander as a diva. On the one hand, the plant impresses with a striking pink flower. On the other hand, the rose laurel places high demands on its location and care. In short, it requires a great deal of attention, and the gardener cannot afford to make any mistakes. A species-appropriate attitude rewards the plant with said impressive appearance. Otherwise, however, it will not bloom. It is not that difficult to get the oleander to bloom.
Oleander does not bloom
If the oleander does not bloom, this can have various causes:
- wrong location
- bad weather conditions
- wrong cut
- pouring behaviour
- nutrient deficiency
- faulty wintering
- pest infestation
Wrong location
- sunny
- warm
- sheltered from the wind
If these conditions are not met, the plant refuses to flower. The plant probably brought these requirements with it from its homeland, the warm regions of China, India and the Mediterranean region. A location in front of a house wall facing south or south-west is therefore ideal. Fortunately, if the gardener is certain that the wrong location is the reason why the plant does not flower, this problem can be solved quickly. Since the plant is usually kept in a bucket, no transplanting is required. The holder simply moves the pot along with the plant to a sunnier spot.
notice: The location should be based on the needs of the crop, as well as taking into account the protection of children and pets. All components of the rose laurel cause a toxic effect when consumed.
Bad weather conditions
Cold and rainy days? Many people prefer to make themselves comfortable in the house, even in summer. The oleander thinks the same and hides its pink flowers. Despite its high water requirement, the rose laurel does not like too much moisture. He also disapproves of too low temperatures. If these fall below 18 °C for a longer period of time, the oleander will definitely not bloom. It may comfort the gardener a little that in this case it is not a fault in maintenance that is responsible, but a whim of nature.
notice: The normal flowering period for oleanders is from May or June to mid-September.
Wrong cut
As I said, the rose laurel is a diva. Even when pruning, he insists on a delicate treatment, during which the gardener plucks off brown and dried leaves by hand. The container plant strictly rejects vigorous pruning, which normally promotes new growth in numerous other plants. The reason: the flower of the oleander forms directly at the top of the previous inflorescence. Therefore, when cutting the rose laurel:
- pruning is done in spring before flowering
- best cut in warm temperatures
- the inflorescences remain
- remove a third of the shoots close to the ground
- Thin out the old wood well to promote the growth of new shoots
- sometimes the oleander blooms twice a year
- old flowers therefore also remain on the plant
tip: Due to the toxicity, gloves are recommended when cutting.
pouring behaviour
The oleander requires intensive watering, with none waterlogging may form. In addition, the container plant does not like cold watering. Collected rainwater is therefore only suitable to a limited extent. At best, the keeper warms it up before watering. However, it is more advisable to use stagnant tap water straight away.
tip: In summer, the rose laurel feels at home on a coaster filled with water.
nutrient deficiency
Forming a lush flower takes energy. It is therefore advisable to add a liquid complete fertilizer to the irrigation water to support it. Forgot to add fertilizer? No problem, in an emergency, administering an instant fertilizer will help.
Faulty hibernation
No species-appropriate hibernation, no flowering in summer. The oleander can withstand a frosty night, but permanent sub-zero temperatures mean the certain death of the plant. It is therefore imperative to bring the plant indoors when the temperature drops. The rose laurel has the following requirements for wintering:
- lots of light
- rather moderate temperatures of 2 to 10°C
- sufficient air circulation
notice: Unfortunately, the consequential damage caused by incorrect overwintering is irreparable.
pest infestation
Wrong hibernation results in both the whereabouts of the flowers in the following summer and an increased risk of pests and diseases. Aphids, for example, like to settle on the plant. Deformed leaves are a sure sign of an infestation, since the unwelcome animals suck the sugary juice from the leaf veins. Even before this unsightly symptom occurs, the black, green, red, yellow or white little animals can be seen with the naked eye. They also attract ants. In contrast to the consequential damage of incorrect wintering, in which the gardener is powerless, there are numerous biological home remedies available to him in this case. Pesticides should not be used for treatment.
tip: Home remedies from water-vinegar solutions or washing-up liquid can be easily and inexpensively made by yourself. In addition, good ventilation ensures that the pests stay away.