Magnolias are among the first harbingers of the beginning of spring. They have already found their way into many gardens. Their bizarre growth and the tireless, magnificent blooms enchant every year anew. These impressive plants are available in any well-stocked specialist shop. However, the hobby gardener has to reckon with relatively high prices. It is far cheaper to propagate yourself if you already have a plant. Here are some tips on how to do this.
Propagating Magnolia
opportunities
There are four different ways to propagate magnolias. With a little sensitivity, propagation is usually not very difficult. It just takes a lot of patience and a bit of luck. Regardless of which method is used, many months can pass before the first tender roots appear. These decorative ornamental trees can through
- seed
- cuttings
- lowering and
- moss
be propagated.
Propagation by seeds
Magnolias belong to the cold or frost germs. In other words, the seed must be stratified before sowing, that is, exposed to the cold. Obtaining the seed is usually quite easy. After flowering, elongated pods, so-called follicles, develop. These contain the seed. When the fruit then becomes dry, it bursts open and the seed can be removed. He is surrounded by a red shell. Then proceed as follows:
- Soak the seeds in lukewarm water for a few days and rub off the red pulp
- then place dark seeds in a sealable jar with moist sand
- Seed must be completely surrounded by sand
- Close the can airtight
- put in the freezer for three to four months before sowing
- in cold winters storage also possible in the garden
Cones with seeds from an umbrella magnolia
tip: In addition to seeds from the faded flowers, magnolia seeds are also available from good specialist shops.
sowing
Once the seed has been treated, sowing can finally begin at the beginning of spring in March to April, with a soil temperature of at least 15 °C. this will
- some loose substrate filled in a pot
- Put seeds in and lightly cover with an inch or two of soil
- Pot dug in the garden
- Covered with a glass plate at evening temperatures below 10 °C
- in severe frost, bring the pot to a frost-free, cool place
- Soil kept well moist, but avoid waterlogging
A is particularly suitable as a substrate here
- Humus-peat-sand mixture or
- Potting soil mixed with sand.
germination time
The germination time of the individual seeds is quite different. It can sometimes last for many months, even until the spring after next. After germination, the young plants should be pricked out after about four to six weeks. is recommended
- a singulation into small pots
- a substrate of potting soil mixed with coarse-grain expanded clay, gravel or sand
The seedlings are very sensitive to frost. They should therefore remain in the pot for another winter and be brought indoors when there is frost. Planting out in situ in the garden should only be done after about a year, when they are strong enough.
tip: Propagated magnolias from seeds are very often quite lazy. Sometimes the first flowers only appear after a decade. More suitable are therefore a cuttings propagation or sinkers and mosses.
Propagation by cuttings
Magnolias can also be propagated from cuttings. However, with this propagation method, it is always important what type of magnolia it is. The time of cutting and also the type of shoots to be cut depend essentially on this.
Deciduous species
- Cut cuttings in early summer from shoots with still green wood
- alternatively also possible in late summer, then cut half woody cuttings
Evergreen species
- Pruning from semi-lignified cuttings in late summer and early fall between late August and mid-September
cut cuttings
Taking cuttings is not particularly difficult. It is important to always use clean and sharp cutting tools. The best way to proceed is as follows:
- cut cuttings of 20 cm length with pruning shears or rosettes
- remove lower leaves and flowers
- Cut two centimeters crosswise into the end to be rooted with a sharp, clean knife (promotes root formation)
- dip in rooting hormone
- Fill the pot with a humus-rich soil-sand mixture
- Alternatively, potting soil mixed with sand is also possible
- Insert the cuttings halfway into moist substrate
- Press the soil lightly
- Keep the substrate evenly moist, but not too wet
- Avoid waterlogging
- Place the pot in a frost-free, bright place at 18 - 20 °C
- If necessary, put a translucent film or bag with holes over the pot
tip: Cuttings root quite slowly and also very difficult. It can take several weeks for the first roots to appear.
As soon as the cutting is rooted, it can be transplanted into the garden in the coming spring. However, there should be no more frost and the ground should be a little warm. However, it is advisable to leave the cutting in the pot a little longer so that it has a little more time to develop vigorously.
Propagation by sinkers
This method is particularly suitable when there are shoots close to the ground. The best time for this propagation is in late summer to early autumn, from late August to mid-September. In doing so
- a long, young side shoot cut three centimeters deep and leaves removed
- put a small stone in the wound (to prevent the wound from closing)
- Then press the shoot into a 15 to 20 cm deep furrow and fasten it with hoes
- then heaped up garden soil mixed with compost, the tip of the shoot must still protrude 15 cm from the ground
- Watered regularly
tip: The mother plant should be fertilized regularly during this period. Mature compost or rhododendron fertilizer can be used here.
Now patience is required. After two years at the latest, enough roots will have formed and the sinker will be strong enough. The new young plant can then be carefully separated from the mother plant and transplanted to its new destination.
This propagation method is very safe and therefore extremely promising.
Propagation by mossing
The method of removing moss is particularly suitable for plants, such as magnolias, that are difficult to propagate from cuttings. The removal of moss is very time-consuming, but promises good results. For propagation, two-year-old shoots are used here in the spring, which are the thickness of a pencil and have not yet branched out. A few steps are necessary for this:
- 30 to 40 cm below the tip of the shoot, cut the bark diagonally around 2 cm wide with a sharp knife
- Carefully loosen and remove the bark with your fingers
- do not injure underlying tissue
- Cut the plastic flower pot in half at the side and bottom (use as a sleeve)
- Cover the interface thickly with moist moss and press firmly
- Put the flower pot over it and wrap it tightly with transparent foil
- close with wire
- After rooting, cut off shoots from the mother plant below the roots
- Transplant young plant to destination
- water well regularly
If the moss is kept properly moist, the first roots can appear after just two to three months. As a rule, however, the moss should remain on the shoot for at least one growing season.
tip: The use of moss has the advantage that it kills germs.
