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The gentle babbling of a stream and leaves in the wind, such a feeling ensures well-being and relaxation in your own green oasis. Many garden owners want a stream in the garden that flows harmoniously into the garden pond. It not only looks appealing, but also represents a possible habitat for aquatic life that nests in the watercourse. If you want to do a belly run yourself, it's easier than you think.

Streams for the dreamy aspect in the garden

If you decide to have a stream in your garden, you can look forward to a unique project that gives an interesting insight into gardening that is easier to manage. For many garden enthusiasts, creating a stream sounds more difficult than it actually is. What is particularly important here is a garden with a sufficient slope, which is not so problematic in Germany, and enough space. Attractive garden concepts can be implemented with a stream, for example in an Asian style, which bring a completely new "feeling" to the green oasis. In addition, a stream invites you to discover it, as it attracts animals such as birds.

space requirements and slope

In order for you to be able to realize your dream of your own watercourse in the garden, you must first check whether you have enough space in the garden. A stream doesn't have to be straight and can save space with gentle curves, but a little space is needed for the slope to take effect. In the direction of flow, the course of the stream must not be too steep, otherwise the water will not move into the pond, which is responsible for collecting the water. Depending on the size of the property and the maximum incline, different concepts can be implemented. The following values have proven themselves:

  • Width: 20 to 150 cm
  • Incline: 2 to 5 percent
  • Stream bed depth: at least 25 cm
  • Length: varies depending on the size of the property, but a minimum of 150 cm should be included
  • Location in the semi-shade, so that not too much water evaporates, saves water and energy costs

Since water starts to flow slowly but steadily at two to three percent, this information is extremely suitable for creating an attractive stream, especially in Asian, Mediterranean and smaller gardens. The larger the plot, the more branches can be built in and you can also make the project broader. A stream that is 150 centimeters wide only rarely looks good in a small garden and would look much better on a large property with different slopes. Design your stream so that it fits into the garden picture.

Tip: Be inspired by nature or the rules of Asian garden art when it comes to choosing the course, length and width of the stream. Here you will find suitable specifications for the different gradients and dimensions of every garden, which you can integrate into your project, because planning is everything in this task.

affect incline

Depending on the property, it can happen that it is too steep or not steep enough and the water does not flow ideally. If the gradient is too steep, the water flows too quickly and literally washes small creatures, stones or other decorations into the collection basin or back into the water circulation hose. If the gradient is less than two percent, the water hardly flows and sometimes even threatens to stand still. Two different systems are available for this:

  1. Slope too low: Make sure that the end of the watercourse is between 15 to 20 centimeters lower than the beginning. If the ground is particularly level, the creek cuts further into the ground, but at least it flows.
  2. Slope too steep: Install barrages at regular intervals. These catch the water that is flowing too fast, circulate it in the step and drain it again.

All sorts of small creatures can collect in these levels, but decorative items can also be installed that are not washed away. The installation of the barrages is based on the incline of the gradient and the length of the stream. For example, you can divide a stream with a length of two meters and a gradient of five percent into five to six stages and thus make the water calmer.

Of course, you should effectively incorporate these steps into your planning so that you end up with a well-functioning stream. You can also effectively influence the water flow with the following elements, making it faster or slower:

  • varying width of the creek
  • varying depth of the creek
  • Put stones or obstacles in the stream, like stepping stones
  • Set up curves or bends if space allows

In this way, you not only adapt the course of the stream to your preferences, but also to the terrain. Of course it's easy if the garden is fairly level and not too steep, but you can make the project as natural as possible. Let your imagination run wild. It is recommended to test the course of the creek with a thick rope before you create it. This gives you an idea of how the stream is behaving. Of course, this is not necessary for a perfectly straight stream.

catch basin

The catch basin at the end of the stream, which collects the water and directs it back to the pump, can either be an existing or newly created garden pond or a classic catch basin. You are free to choose here, but you should choose the size according to the amount of water flowing. Note: for every centimeter of width, 1.5 liters of water should flow from the source per minute. This means that with a stream that is 30 centimeters wide, the flow rate is 45 liters per minute, which is collected in the catch basin.

What is needed?

After you have finished planning your stream, it is now your turn to select the materials, tools and supplies before moving on to the instructions. You have three different forms of material available that basically represent the creek bed:

Foil: A classic pond liner is used for this, which is available in different thicknesses. Since a pond is designed purely for water flow and not for playing or even swimming in it, you can do without a thick pond liner when creating it. It has the advantage of being easy to lay and can even be laid in difficult corners when building. But it also requires quite a bit of work and a really clean finish so that nothing leaks out.

stream bowls: Stream Shells are special plastic tubes that come in pre-made shapes, including straights and curves, that make laying them a lot easier. They are available in different widths and depths and can be used very well for level routes.

Concrete: You can of course pour a bed of concrete. In contrast to the pond liner, concrete is leak-proof, does not actually have to be replaced and can be decorated with all kinds of decorations. Nevertheless, concrete cannot be influenced afterwards and is completely dependent on the planning. Depending on the stream, laying over concrete can be more lucrative than the pond liner or the bowls. However, the concrete is always poured into a pond liner and then modeled.

tools

In order to be able to build with this material according to the instructions, you still need tools and aids. The most important tools for implementing the building instructions include:

  • Spade, shovel or mini excavator to dig the pit and shape the stream
  • Tarpaulin or container to store spoil until reused or disposed of
  • Secateurs or hedge shears
  • box cutter
  • Wooden slab, wider than the stream
  • Gravel as a clearing layer for the entire stream, about 15 to 20 cm high, include this at the depth of the stream
  • level
  • pond fleece
  • Mortar for building, sealing and fixing
  • Water pump with pressure hose that is longer than the stream
  • rubber boots
  • decorations
  • plant
  • enough filling sand for the entire watercourse

Notice: When using gravel and stones that you put in the stream, make sure that they are washed. If the stones are unwashed, the watercourse gets dirty immediately and also pollutes the garden pond.

building instructions

1. At the beginning of the assembly instructions, mark the area of the stream with bamboo sticks. Then use a spade to remove the top layer of grass and soil to define the work area.

2. Now lift the depth of the defined area spade-deep and remove the first part of the excavation. Then proceed systematically with digging the stream until you have reached the desired depth.

3. While you are digging the earth, you should already integrate the individual stages here. To do this, deepen the respective area and widen it so that the water can collect like in a bowl. Repeat with the following stages.

4. Once you reach the end of the stream, remove any roots. Garden shears are best for this. In addition, remove any stones that are too sharp.

5. Now compact the stream bed with a shovel and your foot power. There must be no more loose earth spots, as this will make the whole process more difficult. This work often goes faster when several people lend a hand.

6. The building instructions continue with checking the sides of the stream. To do this, use the board, stretch it over the stream and place the spirit level on it. Make sure that the sides are horizontal to each other. Water always seeks the easiest flow path and would flow into the garden if the walls were uneven. This point is especially important in relation to the barrages, which must be even.

7. After creating the pit, the assembly instructions continue with filling with sand and laying the pond fleece. These elements serve as a protective layer against roots and stones so that they do not dig into the foil. The layer of sand should be sufficiently thick and the fleece is then placed on top of it. Let the fleece protrude just as far that you can set up the capillary barrier together with the film.

8. Now place the pond liner on the fleece and smooth it out as smooth as possible. You should definitely allow yourself time for this. Especially in corners and curves, care must be taken to ensure that there are no gaps through which water could penetrate. Therefore, if possible, you should choose a pond liner that is at least three times as wide as the stream. Make sure that the length of the fleece and the pond liner match at the edges so that you can build the capillary layer.

9. The next point in the assembly instructions is the application of the capillary layer. You have to build these so that no plants come close to the stream with their roots and drink it almost empty. Likewise, without the barrier, the earth would simply soak up the water. For the capillary layer, the protruding foil is brought into an S-shape together with the fleece, starting at the bank edge. That means there is a small pit on the bank, which should be quite wide and deep so that the water can flow without damaging it. For this purpose, the increase by excavation offers itself.

10. Fill the capillary layer with gravel. This weighs down the film.

11. If you use ready-made bowls, you only need pond liner on the edge to set up the capillary layer. Simply set the trays in the soil and fix the capillary layer under the edges of the trays but above the fleece.

12. If you are building with ready-mixed concrete, fill it over the pond liner. Now you can create the mold and model the finished concrete.

13. Cut off excess pond liner with the cutter. The interfaces of the pond liner should point upwards.

14. Place the pipe at the top of the stream. Build this artistically with natural stones, decorative elements such as gargoyles or covered with mortar.

15. The next point in the instructions is to fill the entire stream with fresh gravel. This should be tight so that the water does not catch it and wash it into the pond. You can attach this to the pond liner with mortar.

16. Now build the decorative elements in the stream. Make sure that the bowls that are placed in the steps created according to the assembly instructions are standing upright. Mortar is again a good choice for this job, as it keeps the decorative elements in place, even with stronger streams.

17. Fill up the edge of the stream after the capillary layer with plant substrate for aquatic plants and soil with a high clay content, as you can plant plants there.

18. If you want to put special aquatic plants in the creek bed, they are placed in special plant bags directly in the creek. These are fixed with stones or you can build them directly into the stream bed with mortar. Be careful not to break the containers and the plants to float away.

19. Now plant the appropriate plants at the edge and line the bank even more with gravel, stones or flagstones to cover the last signs of the pond liner.

20. If possible, place the drain pump about 80 centimeters deep in the ground so that it is protected from the cold in winter. The pipe is laid next to the stream at a depth of about 30 centimeters and leads to the beginning of the stream. You must never place the pipe under the stream. If you accidentally made a mistake during installation or the pipe breaks, you would have difficult access to it. Also make sure not to lay the pipe directly under the capillary layer.

21. Then start a test run according to the assembly instructions. If water is lost, you should check the leaks again and then start another test run. Make improvements until there really is no more water leaking or overflowing.

22. Clean the workplace and start the stream. Now you can relax after hard work on your own watercourse.

Branch off natural streams

It is also possible to create a stream that has been branched off from a natural stream system. Of course, it is important that you contact your responsible water authority and find out whether this is even possible. Only in rare exceptions and when a part of the creek is on or directly on your property, such a diversion is possible. The most important thing here is the concept and whether the stream would be too strongly influenced by the artificial branching in its natural course. If you get permission, build as above except don't install a water pump.

plant

Plants are part of the stream and can be perfectly created. Here is a small selection of possible plants:

  • meadow plants
  • grasses
  • loosestrife
  • astilbes
  • meadow knotweed
  • Tiered primroses
  • jester flowers
  • crawling bugle
  • ferns
  • hosts
  • meadowsweet
  • Bergenia
  • Japanese swamp iris
  • dwarf rush

Depending on the watercourse, you can of course integrate different plants here, which are based on your wishes and ideas. The species mentioned above are very suitable for the classic German torrent, while lemon trees and Mediterranean herbs are well suited for a Mediterranean garden or bamboo for a Japanese garden.

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Garden design