
Clematis, also known as clematis, are very popular in gardens, whether as a solitary plant on a trellis or together with climbing roses. The imposing climbing artist enchants year after year with her colorful flowers. Sometimes, however, it can happen that the bloom comes to an abrupt end prematurely. Suddenly the parts of the plant above the ground begin to wither and die down to the surface of the soil. The reason for this is the so-called clematis wilt, the horror of all hobby gardeners. Below are tips for detection, prevention and control.
clematis wilt
Two variants of clematis wilt
Clematis wilt is a feared one fungal disease, which mainly affects cultivated clematis hybrids. However, the original species of Italian clematis (Clematis viticella) are usually spared. In the case of infestation, the above-ground parts of the plant die off completely.
There are two different variants of the fungal disease, which also take a different course. A distinction is made between the
- Phoma clematis wilt and
- Fusarium clematis wilt

tip: Clematis wilt can also occur in buttercup plants (Ranunculaceae) such as anemones, delphiniums or Christmas roses. However, it usually stays with the leaf spot disease.
Phoma clematis wilt
Phoma clematis wilt is the most common variant and is caused by the harmful fungus Ascochyta clematidina. She occurs in the months May to June on. This variant of clematis wilt mainly affects large-flowered hybrids. The course of the disease can then lead to the complete death of the above-ground parts of the plant. In the original clematis species, wilting is usually limited to the leaves and is relatively harmless.
It is important to recognize the fungal infestation at an early stage in order to be able to act quickly. First signs for a Phoma clematis wilt are expressed as follows:
- typical change in leaves
- initially affects older leaves in the lower third of the plant
- small round light brown spots with yellow halo on underside of leaves
- Spots get bigger and darker
- Spread of the spots over the entire sheet
- Eventually the affected leaves die off
measures
During this stage of the disease, it is usually possible to save the plant if it is detected in good time. However, measures to combat this must then be taken quickly, such as
- remove all affected leaves from the plant and collect them from the ground
- Dispose of diseased plant parts in the residual waste
- Clean tools used and disinfect with alcohol
- Spray the entire plant with a fungicide, such as Ortiva Universal Antifungal
- from May regular inspection of the plants at short intervals
tip: Never dispose of diseased plant parts in the compost, as the fungus can then spread quickly.
infestation of other parts of the plant
In the case of Phom clematis wilt, the harmful fungus can also spread to other parts of the plant, such as stems and shoots, within a very short time. There it penetrates into the interior of the plant, into the pathways. The process is accelerated by a humid and warm climate. Within fourteen days, the above-ground parts of the plant can then be completely dead. At this stage of the disease, treatment is no longer possible. The use of fungicides does not help either.
Since the leaves are only infected when they are moist, this should be taken into account when choosing the location of the clematis. Attached is one
- rain-protected place, for example under an eaves and
- Location with sufficient air circulation so that the leaves dry quickly
tip: The fungal pathogen does not penetrate into the root area. With a lot of luck and patience, the plant will sprout again after two to three years.
Fusarium clematis wilt
Fusarium clematis wilt is also known as fusia rose known. It is also caused by a harmful fungus, the slime mold Coniothyrium clematidis-rectae. The pathogen penetrates directly into the wood through injuries on thin shoots and thereby clogs the pathways. An adequate supply of nutrients and water is then no longer guaranteed. Such points of attack can be cracks in the bark, which often occur in winter due to temperature fluctuations or damage during gardening.
As a rule, fusia rose occurs less frequently than phoma clematis wilt. Mainly large-flowered species and young plants are affected. In addition, incorrectly planted and weak-growing plants are also very susceptible. After an infestation with the harmful fungus, quick action is required, because only then can the clematis be saved. However, it is important to recognize the Fusarium clematis wilt correctly. signs for this are:
- The disease does not appear before mid-June, as the fungus only occurs at high temperatures
survived - despite sufficient water supply, the plant dries up
- Leaves and shoots suddenly begin to wither above the damaged area
- Shoots and leaves hang limp
- brown discoloration of the leaves from the edge to the middle of the leaf
- Death of the above-ground parts after a short time
combat
If these symptoms apply to the plant, then the fight must be started as soon as possible. become
- cut off all shoots down to the healthy wood close to the ground
- Cut wounds sealed with tree wax
- carefully picking up any fallen leaves
- all parts of the plant are disposed of in the residual waste, not in the compost
- all tools used are carefully cleaned and disinfected
- Use of fungicides is ineffective
- Targeted, additional fertilization, as fungus attacks weak plants
tip: After pruning, water plants regularly with a solution of aspirin and water. To do this, dissolve ten aspirin tablets in five liters of water.
Here, too, the fungus does not penetrate into the subterranean parts of the plant. The plants usually recover after two to three years.
Prevention is better than cure
In order not to prepare the ground for the clematis to spread, it is advisable to prevent this from the outset. Here are some tips:
- always choose resistant varieties
- Vigorous biennials in 2L or 3L containers for new planting
- Look for a location that is protected from rain and wind
- sunny to semi-shady
- The root area should be in the shade, strong soil heat promotes clematis wilt
- to shade the root area, underplanting with hostas, purple bells,
bluebells - Protection against strong temperature fluctuations (midday sun, cold winds)
- Protection from the winter sun by means of a shading net
- Set up trellis at a sufficient distance from walls and fences
- Properly secure plants to trellis or plant stakes, especially to plant base
- remove old leaves in spring
- Cut off brown leaves during growing season
- Do not till the soil under plants to avoid damaging the roots
- to protect against dehydration and to avoid weeds bark mulch
bring out - regular watering, avoidance of waterlogging (root rot)
water only in the root area, do not wet the leaves - Seal injuries (e.g. snail damage etc.) with tree wax
- Before planting, loosen the soil deeply, bring in mature compost or leaf humus
- If necessary, installation of a drainage system made of sand and gravel
- sufficient distance to neighboring plants
- remove old roots from the plants
- dig in a plant barrier (wooden board) before root competition from neighboring plants
- always plant at an angle and always two pairs of eyes lower than in the pot
- when replanting on infected soil, soil must be replaced
- Fertilize in spring with organic or mineral fertilizer
tip: Planting in a pot is also possible against root competition from neighboring plants, but the bottom of the pot must be removed for this purpose.
Herb manure for plant strengthening
Since clematis wilt also tends to affect weakened plants, appropriate strengthening is necessary. Many hobby gardeners swear by homemade herbal manure. Comfrey and nettle manure are particularly suitable here. The liquid manure must be diluted in a ratio of 1:10 before use. We recommend watering every eight to fourteen days. The leaves must not be wetted.
tip: For preparation, 1 kg of fresh leaves or 150 g to 200 g of dried leaves are soaked in 10 l of water and stirred daily. The broth is ready when it no longer foams.
Choose resistant varieties
These varieties are relatively insensitive to clematis wilt. The risk of them getting sick is low. Here is a small selection of resistant varieties.
The most resistant are the original varieties of Italian clematis (Clematis viticella):
- Alba luxurians - white flowering
- Etoile Violet - velvety violet
- Prince Charles - delicate light blue to slightly pink
- Betty Corning - light blue bells
In addition, there are also less susceptible large-flowered hybrids:
- Gypsy Queen - dark purple
- Niobe - velvety dark red
- Jackmanii - blue-violet
- General Sikorski - light blue with purple stripes
- Pink champagne - pink
- Princess Diana - bright pink to salmon colored
- Duchess of Albany - pink with light stripes
- Helios - yellow
- Viola - blue-violet to black
- Hagley Hybrid - light pink
- Bill Mackenzie - Yellow Bells
