With the pruning of a plum tree, a stable crown of strong main branches and a high production of fruit should be achieved. This crown should be able to carry kilos of mirabelle plums when the fruit is ripe and also withstand rain and storms. In order for all leaves and fruits to receive sufficient amounts of light, the branches must not only be distributed as evenly as possible around the trunk, but must also not grow too densely.

construction

structure of the tree

Essentially, it depends on the substrate whether the plum tree (Prunus domestica subsp. syriaca) grows strongly or weakly. Therefore, it makes little sense to try to curb excessive branch growth with a vigorous pruning. If you only have a small garden, you should choose slow-growing Mirabelle varieties or half-stems when buying.

A plum tree is divided into different sections from bottom to top:

  • root
  • tribe
  • for grafted trees: rootstock and grafting site
  • three to four main branches
  • center drive (trunk extension)
  • Fruit shoots (thinner, richly branched branches with many flower buds)
  • shoots and buds (annual wood)
  • Rider: shoots growing vertically upwards on the leading or fruiting branches)

The fruiting branches grow on the extensions of the leading branches. These should grow as flat (horizontally) as possible. The flower buds of the Mirabelle tree form on short shoots on perennial wood.

tools

In order to ensure smooth, clean cuts and thus rapid wound healing, clean, sharp tools are necessary for a tree pruning.

  • Rose or pruning shears: for thin branches up to 2 cm in diameter
  • Pruning saw/branch saw: for thicker branches
  • sharp knife: for smoothing the edges of the wound
  • possibly telescopic scissors and a telescopic saw

cutting measures

Fruit trees such as the Mirabelle plum tree are quite long-lived trees and plants that, with good care and the right location, can reach a life and yield age of fifty to one hundred years. The wood requires regular care so that it remains vital and can deliver good yields. When pruning plum trees, a distinction is made between the following pruning measures.

education cut

In the first few years, the focus is not on a high fruit yield, but on a rapid, strong build-up of the crown. The yield phase begins after about 10 to 12 years for the plum tree; it only reaches its peak between the ages of 30 and 50. In order to promote growth, standard trees in particular must be subjected to regular annual pruning. If these cuts are not made in the first few years, the fruit tree will bear fruit more quickly, but it will also form a large number of long, strong branches. These can tip over under the weight of the fruit and age prematurely. An educational cut therefore has the following goal.

  • Construction of a stable crown with shoring and fruit branches
  • a loose crown for ease of tending and harvesting

The first training cut is usually made directly when planting the plum tree. It is therefore referred to as a plant cut.

care cut

In order for the fruit tree, Mirabelle plum tree, to be able to deliver good quantities of fruit in the long term, it needs regular pruning. A grooming or surveillance cut includes.

  • Light thinning work (prevents aging and maintains vitality)
  • guarantees the exposure of the lower parts of the crown
  • Securing the tree statics (no further height and width expansion)
  • permanent rejuvenation (thinning of the fruit shoots)

taper cut

This measure is only necessary in exceptional cases. In a rejuvenation pruning, old or neglected Mirabelle plum trees that only produce a few young shoots are pruned back vigorously into the old wood. A new crown must then be built up from the following new shoots.

cutting time

There are basically two times to cut a plum tree. Winter pruning is generally suitable for inexperienced hobby gardeners, as the growth form of the branches without leaves is more manageable.

winter pruning

  • Time: late November to late March
  • in hibernation
  • best in February/March
  • do not cut at temperatures below -5 degrees
  • only cut on dry days (risk of infection if the cutting points do not dry)
  • best time for heavy pruning

summer cut

  • cut out green water shoots inside the tree in June
  • Stronger thinning possible from mid-August
  • Advantage: improves fruit quality
  • Disadvantages: risk of sunburn, difficult for beginners

cutting laws

The natural shoot formation of the plum tree has a strong influence on the cut. Because depending on where and how hard it is cut, the tree will sprout differently.

Severe pruning leads to strong new growth

  • only a few buds remain
  • few but long shoots emerge from this

Slight pruning results in severe branching

  • a multitude of buds remain
  • each individual bud only sprouts weakly

Uneven cuts encourage tip growth

  • higher buds sprout stronger
  • the crown develops unevenly

In order to prevent uneven crown growth, the shoots must be cut evenly.

cutting guide

As a rule, fruit trees are built in the form of a pyramid. This crown shape can be used on a mirabelle tree in the form of a half trunk, standard trunk or in the form of a bush.

plant cutting

The first build-up of a stable crown takes place during plant pruning. The foundations for the later construction of the fruit trees are already being laid.

Step 1: Select leading branches

A pyramidal crown consists of the trunk extension (central shoot) and three to four well-distributed main branches, on which side shoots and fruit wood are arranged. Since this basic framework is maintained over the entire lifespan of the tree, special attention is paid to the selection of the main branches.

  • Choose a central drive and three to four suitable leading branches
  • flat, strong side branches are suitable as leading branches
  • should be at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees to the center drive
  • must branch off evenly to all sides
  • should not stand together in a whorl on the main shoot
  • best spread at different heights on the trunk
  • in the case of opposite guide drives, remove the less favorable one
  • Cut off all branches that come off too steeply (competing shoots) at the base

Heavy branches should always be sawn off in several steps so that the weight of the branch does not tear the cutting point and possibly damage the entire wood. For this purpose, the underside of the branch is first sawn in about a third at a distance of about 10 cm from the main branch. Then the upper side is sawed about one to two centimeters further out. After the branch has been removed, the stub is sawn off cleanly on the branch ring (slightly thickened area at the beginning of the branch). In the case of very young trees with few main branches, it is sufficient to determine two main branches in the year of planting. The following year, when the main shoot has continued to grow and has produced new side shoots, the missing leaders are then selected.

Step 2: wound treatment

According to new findings, it is not necessary to coat the wounds with a wound sealant. This measure does not significantly promote wound healing. However, it is important that the area can dry well. Use a sharp knife to trim frayed edges as smooth as possible. The healing is faster the smaller and smoother the area is. In general, avoid all wounds that have a diameter of more than 10 cm!

Step 3: Correct growth direction

If the selected leading branches are too steep, they should be guided further outwards with the help of spacers. Otherwise, a wide, well-ventilated and exposed crown cannot develop. If the leading branches are still very flexible, they can also be weighed down with weights. However, the weights must not be too great, otherwise the branch threatens to break. Leading branches that are too flat can be tied up.

Step 4: Shortening of the leading branches

After correcting the direction of growth, the leading branches are shortened by one third to one half.

  • always cut directly above an outward-facing eye
  • break off or cut off all the shoots and buds that are on top of the branch
  • only side shoots on the underside remain
  • three to four side shoots per leading branch are ideal
  • in this way, competitive instincts that grow strongly upwards are avoided
  • Cut off all leading branches at approximately the same height
  • This is the only way that all leading shoots can grow at the same rate next year

Step 5: Shorten and thin out the central shoot

The stem extension should have flat fruiting branches that fill in the gaps to the leading branches. If three to four leading shoots have already been selected in addition to the central shoot, the main shoot is also shortened. If there are still too few leading shoots, the middle shoot must first be allowed to continue growing.

  • Shorten trunk extension
  • the central shoot should exceed the leading branches by about 15 cm
  • divert to a steep side shoot
  • otherwise only leave flat side shoots (approx. 90 degree angle)
  • these should be staggered on the main drive
  • if there are opposite shoots, cut off the less suitable one

First training cut

From the following year, the crown will be further built up. An educational pruning must be carried out before the main yield begins. The training pruning not only serves to build up a stable tree crown, but also for the targeted installation of fruit branches.

Step 1: remove competitive instincts

In the vegetation period following pruning, the Mirabelle plum tree had time to regrow more or less vigorously. Pruning is best done in late winter or early spring, around late February to early March.

  • Cut back all competing shoots to the branch extension to lengthen the trunk
  • Cut off all shoots that grow steeply upwards or inwards on the leading shoots

Step 2: Remove fruit shoots

In the first few years, it's not about a big harvest, but about building up the crown structure. If too many fruit shoots remain, the plum tree will put its energy into the formation of the fruit and not primarily into the growth of the branches.

  • Remove all fruit shoots that are sprouting upwards and to the side on the leading branches
  • only leave fruit shoots that grow flat outwards
  • preferably on the underside of the leaders

Step 3: Tighten missing leading branches

If not all (three to four) leading branches were present in young trees when the plant was cut, the missing shoots are now added from the main shoot.

  • When choosing, pay attention to the direction of growth and the height of the central shoot
  • Fill in the gaps in the previous guiding branches

Step 4: Cutting back the leading branches

The extent to which the main branches are pruned depends essentially on how the fruit tree has sprouted.

  • Cut harder when sprouting is weak
  • Cut less when sprouting
  • always trim over an outward facing eye
  • all leading branches must be cut at approximately the same height
  • Break out inward (upward) buds

Step 5: Shorten the main drive

If there are three to four well-developed leading shoots next to the main shoot, the main shoot is also shortened. This should exceed the main branches by about 20 cm. However, do not just shorten the central shoot somewhere, but redirect it to a weakly growing, steep side shoot.

More educational cuts

The upbringing in the following years has the aim of further developing both the leading branches and the central drive. In addition, fruit branches are installed.

Step 1: Check the angle of the leading branches for trunk elongation

With each training cut, the main branches are always newly formed. Check whether the leading branches are still at an angle of about 45 degrees to the central drive. Any remaining correction sticks or ropes are removed in advance.

  • spread out leading branches that are too steep
  • Tie up leaders that are too flat
  • up to a length of one to two meters: angle of 45 to 50 degrees (depending on the desired tree size)
  • from then a little steeper upwards (about 30 degrees)
  • always pull all leading branches at the same angle and in the same length

Step 2: Position of the leading branches among themselves

Also check whether the individual guide branches are the same distance apart.

  • Check angles between branches
  • with four leading drives: 90 degrees
  • with three leading drives: 120 Gad
  • If the angle is not correct, spreading or tying can also help here

Step 3: Shorten leading branches

Up to at least the 6th year, the leading branches of the mirabelle tree are shortened in length every year.

  • stimulates the formation of side branches
  • only ever leave a single extension shoot (or bud at the end of the shoot)
  • Leading branches must not fork at the tip

Step 4: Set up fruit branches on the leading shoots

Once the basic structure of the crown has been established, the first fruit branches are slowly promoted.

  • the first fruit branch may be allowed no earlier than 50 cm from the trunk
  • Fruit shoots should always run flat outwards
  • preferably slightly uphill (not downhill)
  • possibly correct with a spreader or cord
  • another two to three fruit branches follow at a distance of at least 40 cm
  • Do not shorten fruit shoots
  • must never be thicker than the guide branch

Step 5: Set up fruit shoots on the middle shoot

Also on the central shoot, only fruit wood that is at a suitable angle to the trunk extension may remain.

  • only allow fruit branches on the central shoot that are at a flat angle (about 90 degrees)
  • remove all upright fruit shoots on the trunk extension
  • Guide the fruiting wood to the side, which covers the leading branches underneath

care cut

After the twelfth to fifteenth year, the plumage of the Mirabelle tree is usually complete. The main work of pruning is to preserve the crown.

The following measures are necessary for this:

  • remove all inward growing shoots on the main branches (and side shoots).
  • Fruiting shoots also remain standing when they are growing on the leading branches
  • Cut the leading branches free of branches
  • Shorten and rebuild any leading branches that are too long
  • all leading branches must remain approximately the same height
  • shorten fruit wood that is too long (redirect to shoots pointing upwards)
  • the further out the fruit branches are, the shorter they have to be
  • Cut back fallen side branches to young shoots
  • Keep the trunk extension free from strong side shoots
  • a height limitation is possible by diverting to a side shoot

taper cut

Neglected Mirabelle plum trees that have not been pruned for a long time develop a dense crown and hardly show any young shoots. The plum tree still bears fruit, but these are very small and some of them do not ripen. In this case, a radical rejuvenation cut can help. A taper pruning, like a monitor pruning, removes any overly dense twigs and branches. However, since no pruning measures were carried out for a long time, significantly more and also thicker branches have to be removed here. The old fruit wood hanging down is also cut off. In contrast to the monitoring pruning, in addition to the main branches, side shoots and fruiting wood must also be shortened to stimulate the new shoots. However, no more than 40% of the crown volume should be removed with this radical cutting measure.

middle drive:

  • Remove competing branches (side branches that are too steep)
  • shorten side shoots that are too long
  • the higher up in the crown, the shorter
  • Cut or redirect steep side branches
  • Cut off (or severely shorten) all side branches that cover the main branches

leading branches:

  • Thin out water shoots (thick branches growing steeply upwards)
  • remove fan-shaped shoots at the tips
  • Cut back side branches
  • the further out, the shorter
  • Shorten and rebuild guide branches that are too flat (tilted) (flat shoot on top)

fruit wood:

  • Prune drooping fruit shoots back to young shoots
  • greatly reduce dense branching
  • clear out water shoots
  • leave weak and flat shoots

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Garden plants