The rubber tree is a popular and attractive houseplant that can grow up to 40 m tall in nature. The greatest ornament of the Ficus elastica are its large, leathery and shiny green leaves. The initially straight growth is characteristic. From a certain height, the rubber tree branches by itself under optimal conditions. With a targeted cut, better branching but also straight growth can be promoted or the plant can be rejuvenated.
reasons
Reasons for a cut
The Ficus elastica does not necessarily have to be cut. It can grow and thrive for many years without any pruning. Nevertheless, it is advisable to take appropriate pruning measures on the plant about every 5 - 10 years.
There are several reasons for this:
- if the rubber tree has grown too large or sprawling
- it should be limited in height
- the plant has grown very unevenly or crookedly
- the typical appearance is disturbed
- a disease or dead plant parts require a cut
- branching or a bushier growth are desired
If the light falls on one side, this plant may grow crooked. If no pruning measures are taken at all, the Ficus elastica tends to become bald over the years. No matter what is to be achieved with a pruning, the rubber tree is a very pruning-tolerant houseplant, which usually sprout again from a single remaining eye.
Tip: The rubber tree, or the milky sap that the plant exudes after a cut, is toxic to humans and pets. For this reason, it should be placed out of the reach of small children and pets or should not be purchased.
time
Best time to cut
In principle, this lush plant can be cut at any time. Nevertheless, it is advisable to use the winter months or evening hours for this. This is because it is precisely at these times that the sap flow is significantly reduced. In the following spring, the rubber tree will sprout again relatively quickly.
pruning
promote branching
The rubber trees that are commercially available are mostly still young and small plants, which in most cases hardly have any branches. If they feel completely comfortable in their future location, they will form one or the other side shoot with increasing age or from a size of about 150 - 200 cm. Under less favorable conditions, it may also not branch out on its own. Then you can help with a corresponding pruning.
- Older and young plants can be stimulated to form side shoots
- watch out for sleeping eyes or dormant buds on the trunk of the rubber tree
- they are found at some intervals along the trunk
- recognizable by small elevations
- new side shoots sprout from these eyes after the cut
- shorten the stem of an older plant at the desired height
- always cut just above a sleeping eye
After the cuts have been taken care of, the Ficus elastica usually recovers relatively quickly and shows the first side shoots within the next few weeks. Locations with optimal light conditions are also beneficial for a denser crown.
education cut
Raising young rubber trees
In order to train a young plant to branch out early on or to stimulate the formation of side shoots, cut off the main shoot after about the third to fifth pair of leaves. Depending on how strong the branching should be, the side shoots are also shortened after the first to third pair of leaves. Shoots that are too close together or disturb the overall picture can be removed completely at any time. If the branching should be a little stronger, you can cut over an eye as well as over a leaf axil.
Tip: In order to avoid contamination, for example on floors or pieces of furniture from leaking milky juice, it is advisable to place the plant on a protective base for cutting measures.
To cut
Cut already branched rubber tree
If a rubber tree already has side shoots, these should also be shortened for even better branching and a denser crown. This applies in particular to side shoots that are longer than the main stem or tower over it. Shoots that are located directly below the cutting point should also be shortened. Otherwise, these side shoots could become longer than the middle or main shoot, which in turn endangers the stability of the entire plant and its natural shape is lost. Consequently, starting from the top, cut off the first lateral shoots after the second pair of leaves. After the cut, close the wounds again to prevent bleeding.
Pruning for an upright growth
While some prefer branched rubber trees, others prefer straight growth. This can also be easily achieved by appropriate cutting measures. If the tree is to grow more upright, it is sufficient to remove the side shoots. To do this, cut them off directly at the trunk. Over time, new shoots can form below the resulting interfaces, which can then be removed again.
taper cut
rejuvenate rubber tree
When talking about rejuvenating a rubber tree, it is not primarily about a radical pruning, as is the case with other plants. Here it is more about growing new plants from older and perhaps already heavily bare plants. This can be achieved, among other things, by removing moss.
moss
The best time to rejuvenate a Ficus elastica by removing moss is in spring around March. In this way, root formation is complete by the time winter dormancy begins.
- first select a suitable drive
- then make an oblique cut below a leaf knot
- cut from bottom to top
- the resulting gap must remain open
- to do this, insert a wedge or small wooden stick into the gap
- then wrap the interface with well-soaked moss
- then wrap the whole thing with foil or tape
- Tie the foil to the trunk at the top or bottom with some raffia
The moss must now be kept evenly moist for several weeks. As soon as roots have formed, the rooted shoot tips can be separated below the cutting point and planted separately.
Tip: Incidentally, by removing moss you can achieve interesting growth forms on a rubber tree grown as a bonsai. However, only the small-leaved varieties are suitable for this.
wound care
Proper wound care is essential after any pruning to prevent the pruned plant from bleeding. To stop the flow of the milky juice, warm water is first dripped onto the cut surface. The wound is then closed with soft wax. Instead of wax, you can also use special commercially available plastic plugs.
Despite wound care, it can happen that a short piece of the trunk dries up and dies at the cutting point. If only the trunk above a sleeping eye is affected, there is no reason to worry. Then the rubber tree usually drives out again.
tool
The right tool
Only clean and very sharp cutting tools should be used to prevent crushing and injury to the plant to be trimmed. Ideally, they should be disinfected before and after cutting, e.g. with alcohol. Dirty cutting tools can not only cause injuries, but also transmit diseases and germs. A more robust garden shears can be used for the trunk or slightly thicker shoots. A sharp knife is usually sufficient for thinner shoots.