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Lavender is considered by many hobby gardeners to be almost a sure thing in terms of flowering and robustness. It is not for nothing that this friend of all bees and bumblebees adorns numerous front gardens and plant beds. Nevertheless, Lavandula Angustifolia keeps having problems and dies. We explain why and what you can do about it.
Lavender goes in
Common causes and remedies
Of course, not every single problematic lavender can be saved using the following measures. Because again and again very individual reasons come up, which unfortunately can only be found out within the framework of an equally individual cause research. However, the most common causes occur again and again, so that at least the most common sources of error can be found and eliminated using the following list.
wetness and humidity
If your lavender lets the leaves droop and at the same time turns them increasingly brown from bottom to top, moisture is the most obvious cause. Strictly speaking, it dies because the roots cannot cope with the excess water available and are attacked by putrefactive bacteria.
remedy
- Remove plant from pot or soil
- Cut off rotting roots
- In the field, replace the immediate root environment, completely replace the soil in the plant pot, ensure that the drainage holes in the pot work properly (place potsherds, etc.)
- Put the lavender plant back in and water it only moderately
danger: If rotting roots are pruned, the central taproot of the lavender must not be injured. If it is damaged, the probability of saving the plant is significantly reduced.
Lavender in the garden
notice: Although one often suspects too little water when a plant is drying up, this is rarely the cause of lavender in our latitudes. The plant actually comes from southern regions and is adapted to poor soil with very little water storage capacity.
lack of space
If Lavandula Angustifolia is slowly but steadily dying away, a lack of space could be a reason. What is meant here is not so much the space for the above-ground parts of the plant, i.e. branches and flowers, but much more the earth space available for the root system. If the plant runs out of development opportunities here, this also affects the visible components. Growth stops and the leaves and later the twigs turn brown and die.
remedy
- Repot the plant in a larger planter
- Select a location outdoors that is not directly affected by borders or poor subsoil
- Ensure sufficient depth for taproot
notice: Especially with beds that are too shallow or plant pots that are too shallow, too much water is often stored without it being able to seep away. Therefore, in these cases, the atrophy is often accompanied by the symptoms of excessive moisture already described.
over-fertilization
Lavender is a very frugal plant, which usually does not require any additional nutrients. When grown in combination with more demanding crops such as roses, overfeeding can ultimately be a death sentence. Especially with nitrogen, over-fertilization can initially lead to the plant developing enormously in a very short time. The gardeners here speak of the fact that it "shoots into the weed". After two to three years at the latest, however, this process reverses and the above-ground parts of the plant first wilt, later turn brown and die.
remedy
- Set fertilizer application
- Relocate to over-fertilized potted plants
- Move to a less fertilized location when keeping beds, alternatively replace the soil
- Limit joint plantings to less nutrient-intensive partners
location
Most lavender species prefer full sun. If they lack the sun, they lag behind in their development. If there is an extreme lack of light, the plant may even wither and eventually die.
remedy
- Relocate to full sun
- If you have potted plants, move the pot around, e.g. on a south-facing terrace or balcony
Note: The most common type of lavender that is suitable for partially shaded areas is white lavender. Nevertheless, it is advisable to check both the location and the suitability of the species for the location before purchasing. If in doubt, the gardener or plant nursery can provide advice.
pruning
Lavandula Angustifolia likes to be pruned back for a lush, dense and compact growth. It is best to cut back in spring and a second in summer after the flowers have faded. If these measures are not taken, the plant will not die completely, but it will increasingly develop defects and grow lighter and lighter. Inexperienced hobby gardeners in particular quickly confuse this with degeneration and a general dying of the plant.
remedy
- Regular and consistent cut:
- First cut in spring
- Second cut in summer after the end of the flowering period
- Cut back to the young shoots
- But: Do not cut into the old wood, otherwise the plant will have to recover, which is very exhausting
mulch
Many gardeners tend to generally cover planting beds with bark mulch. This is to protect against excessive drying out of the soil. However, lavender does not like the permanently high humidity of the soil. The additional acidification of the earth caused by the bark is also not good for it. The result is poorer development and, in the long run, degeneration to the point of drying up and dying.
remedy
- Remove layers of mulch
- Make sure the soil is well aerated against moisture and waterlogging
diseases and pests
Pests are rarely a threat to a lavender plant. Because the essential oils contained are used elsewhere as a pest repellent and of course also protect the "producer" himself. The most common diseases are mold and putrefactive bacteria, which are usually due to excessive soil moisture. The only real disease that is encountered again and again is the fungus "Phoma Lavendula". Once infested, the shoots develop brown, later black spots. If left unchecked, the fungus will spread and attack large parts of the plant. Whole shoots dry up and die.
remedy
- Remove affected shoots
- In case of severe infestation, use fungicides
