The green foliage of the radish is supposed to ensure that a large, tasty root forms in the soil. But a lot of foliage does not mean a good harvest. On the contrary: When radishes shoot up and maybe even bloom, root growth comes to an abrupt end. Instead of steadily increasing in size, the beet remains spindly. What is the reason for radish developing in this way? And what can you do about it?
Radish shoots into the herb
When in the radish plant, bot. Raphanus, excessive foliage development is noticed, it is no longer possible to reverse the growth. Digging up a specimen reveals what actually bothers us: the lack of an edible root. Can the radish plant now be stimulated to use its energy for the subterranean part from now on? Will she delight us with a delicious turnip after all? Unfortunately, no. Edible radishes can now only be obtained by re-seeding at the appropriate time. However, if the causes of the excessive growth are not discovered and eliminated, the problem can recur.
A common problem
It is not uncommon for Raphanus, and this includes the radish subspecies, to shoot up vigorously and neglect the development of the root. Especially inexperienced gardeners report disappointed about this phenomenon. So it makes sense to look for the reasons in the cultivation. The unpredictable weather could also be to blame. Let's take a closer look at where something could have gone wrong and how it can go optimally in the future.
strain choice
Radishes can be sown twice a year: in spring and in late summer. However, one should not indiscriminately reach for commercially available varieties. Because not all radish varieties are suitable for both sowing dates at the same time. If the variety and time of cultivation do not harmonize, the radish can shoot up the weed. Radish varieties fall into these two categories:
- Spring and summer radishes
- Autumn and winter radishes
tip: When the radish sprouts and blooms, it forms seeds soon after. If these seeds are used for later sowing, hobby gardeners often complain about the result. To be on the safe side, it is better to buy fresh seeds from the garden center in such a case.
cold
The first period for sowing extends from April to early August. However, many radish lovers sow this hot root as early as March or even February. Often the driving forces behind it are impatience, ignorance or simply the hope that somehow it will work out. It can actually work if the weather cooperates. For this it has to be mild, with constant temperatures above 10 °C. But in our latitudes the opposite is the case. Unexpected night frosts can occur until mid-May.
- long periods of cold during germination are unfavourable
- the soil temperature is crucial
- it should not fall below 10 °C for more than ten days
- otherwise later growth disorders are promoted
- the “supercooled” radish shoots up and blooms
- the hoped-for turnips, on the other hand, are not formed
warmth
Heat can also spur the Raphanus to grow luxuriantly above ground. This ties up all of his energy, so the beet lags behind in development. The weather will always be a matter of luck, but we don't have to push luck.
- do not sow too late in spring
- if it's already too warm, it's better to do without
- sow in summer from early July to late August
- However, pay attention to the current weather
- If necessary, postpone the sowing date
tip: The radish must not be sown too late, otherwise the beets will not have enough time to ripen. Early frosts set a time limit here.
lighting conditions
If the radish is sown late in spring or early in autumn, it will expect long, bright days. However, this high light intensity will accelerate above-ground budding. What to do to avoid this situation, except to coordinate the sowing date even more carefully? You could also plant the radish in a more shady spot. It must not be completely shaded, but partial shade is perfectly acceptable.
nutrient supply
The radish is one of the medium consumers. It doesn't need a lot of nutrients. And if he still gets them in excess, he uses them to exorcise strongly. If it is only later determined that the soil is too nutrient-rich, there is little room for manoeuvre. Even small radishes could be transplanted to a more favorable place. Otherwise, all that remains is to pay attention to this aspect in good time in the future. A modest fertilization four weeks before sowing is perfectly sufficient.
harvest time
Raphanus sown in spring takes about 8 to 10 weeks to be ready for harvest. Winter radish takes a little longer, namely 13 to 15 weeks. But then it has to be quick. Especially in summer, the time window for the harvest is often no more than a week. Then the radish shoots into the herb and blooms. In this case, while vigorous radishes have developed, they are now furry and woody. What to do to prevent this loss of quality? The following is possible:
- act before the calculated harvest date
- regularly check the ripeness of the radishes
- Determine maturity by tasting
- rather harvest a little earlier
- Store unused beets
- Spring radishes stay fresh for three days in the fridge
- Autumn and winter radishes can be stored for weeks
tip: Dig or uncover a radish turnip. The beet must not give way when you squeeze it between your thumb and forefinger, otherwise it will be overripe.
Discard useless radish plants
Radish plants that have overgrown and it is clear that the harvest is irretrievably lost can be removed from the bed. In this way, no further nutrients are withdrawn from the soil. In addition, useless seed formation is prevented. The free space can be used to grow other types of vegetables in the same season.