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The climbing hydrangeas, originally from Asia, also look good in this country. They are suitable for planting outdoors, but also in pots. However, there are a few things to consider.
Various uses possible
The climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) is a perennial climbing plant. It is used in the greening of facades, walls, fences and trellis. In addition, it is very popular as a privacy screen on terraces and for the seating area in the garden. Their dense green foliage and the impressive, large, umbrella-shaped inflorescences from May to July make them so popular. It is usually planted directly outdoors. Here it can easily climb to a height of 15 meters. However, it is also possible to keep the Hydrangea petiolaris in a large bucket or pot. Popular varieties for container planting are
"Silver Lining"
- Growth height 150 to 200 cm
- Growth width 150 to 200 cm
- white flowers from July to August
- white-green variegated leaves
- wintergreen
"Cordifolia"
- a dwarf form
- Growth height 60 to 300 cm
- Growth width 40 cm
- creamy white flowers from June to July
- heart-shaped foliage leaves
- deciduous
When planting in a tub or pot, however, there are a few things to consider in order to enjoy the climbing hydrangea in all its beauty. Here are some tips on how to do this.
Tip: Flower umbels of the climbing hydrangea are often cut for the vase. They last a long time and give off a sweet scent.
Large planter required
When choosing the right planter for tub culture, there are a few things to consider.
First, the planter must be selected. Even if the climbing hydrangea in a tub or pot does not grow as large as outdoors, the choice of planter is crucial for good growth. Annual growth of the climbing plant can be expected from 15 to 20 centimeters when young and even up to 40 centimeters in old age. That certainly says something about the size of the planter. After all, the motto here is: "The bigger and deeper, the better for the plant". But not only the size, but also the material must be considered, if only because of the stability of the climbing hydrangea. The tub or pot should have
- Minimum volume of 10 to 30 liters
- sufficient drainage holes on the ground
- a light color to reflect the sun's rays
- this prevents the roots from heating up
Next to it should be the vessels
- be stable and thick-walled
- made of ceramic, terracotta or concrete
- have small feet
- alternatively insert blocks
- important so that excess water drains away
- no coasters
Correct substrate important
There are also a few things to consider when choosing the substrate. In order to keep a climbing hydrangea in a pot, the soil substrate used is important. She can be very peculiar here. In its original home, the climbing plant grows in the forests in a loose, humus-rich and nutrient-rich soil. Besides is just as important
- a pH between 5.5 and 6.5
- slightly acidic is ideal
- no lime
- permeable and at the same time water-storing substrate
- no waterlogging
- no compaction of the earth
You should distance yourself from the normal standard potting soil. It's not particularly suitable. Alternatively, you can mix the potting soil yourself. There are different possibilities:
mixture consisting of
- Moor bed and rhododendron soil
- 20 percent quartz sand, expanded clay or fine grit
mixture consisting of
- two parts white peat
- two parts of garden soil
- a part of lava granules
- two parts leaf compost
- a handful of horn shavings and
alternatively a mixture of
- leaf soil
- bark humus
- Clay
- coir substrate
- horn shavings and
- perlite
Unfortunately, the pH value of the self-mixed soil can rarely be accurately estimated in advance. A test should then be carried out afterwards. The necessary test strips are available in every garden or hardware store. Sometimes the soil mixture has to be changed in terms of acidity:
- pH below 5.5 Addition of garden or algae lime
- pH above 6.5 Addition of alum (potassium aluminum sulphate) or peat
Pot hydrangea properly
Be sure to pay attention to the quality of the substrate you use.
As a rule, climbing hydrangeas are offered as container plants. These can be planted all year round. In order to keep the climbing hydrangea in the pot or bucket for as long as possible, it must be potted properly. The procedure is as follows:
- Soak the root ball in buckets with rainwater or stagnant tap water
- Application of drainage to the bottom of the pot
- Use of potsherds, expanded clay or grit
- lay water-permeable and breathable fleece over it
- prevents soil and inorganic substrate from mixing
- then fill in a third of the soil
- Insert the root ball in the middle
- fill in the remaining soil substrate
- Press the earth lightly in between
- Prevent cavities from forming
- Fill up to the bottom pair of leaves at most
- Leave a pouring edge of 3 to 5 cm free
- Water vigorously until excess water runs out of drainage holes
If a climbing aid is already integrated in the plant pot, then the lower tendrils can be tied to the existing struts at the end. But be careful, the twine must not damage the plant tissue.
Notice: When using terracotta planters, they should be watered for at least 24 hours. Otherwise it can easily happen that the porous material of the plant draws moisture away.
site selection
It is precisely when choosing the location that decisions are made about the growth and blooming splendor of the climbing hydrangea. He should
Climbing Hydrangea, Hydrangea petiolaris
- semi-shady to shady and sheltered from the wind
- rather cool and humid
- but still not too dark
- ideal light shade
- optimal north wall of the house or shady terrace
In addition, the climbing plant can also thrive in a sunny place in a westerly or easterly direction. However, more frequent watering is then necessary during the summer months. In general, the brighter the location, the more magnificent the coloring of the leaves in autumn.
Notice: If the location is too dark, no flowers will form. On the other hand, direct sunlight can burn the flowers and leaves.
Sufficient watering
Like all other hydrangeas, the climbing hydrangea has a high water requirement. You have to pay particular attention to the quality of the irrigation water, because the plants do not tolerate lime well. When casting, please note:
- Use of rainwater or decalcified tap water
- water only when the surface of the soil has dried slightly
- Pour slowly and carefully onto the root disc
- Do not water the plant
- Watering sufficient if excess water drains through drainage holes
- watering intervals shorter in sunny locations
- Avoid waterlogging
Especially in summer, when there are dense foliage and flowers, the plant evaporates a lot of moisture and the watering does not last very long. Daily watering is usually necessary.
Notice: The finger test can be used to determine the water requirement. To do this, press your index finger one to two centimeters deep into the substrate. If it is still damp there, no watering is necessary. Otherwise waterlogging can quickly occur.
Fertilizer application during growth phase
Liquid fertilizer should be used for climbing hydrangeas in the bucket. The trade offers special hydrangea fertilizer for this purpose. It contains all the necessary nutrients and trace elements. The best way to proceed is as follows:
- Fertilization in the months of April to September
- every two weeks
- gift with the irrigation water
- Mixture according to the manufacturer's specifications
- water before and after fertilizing with clear water
- alternatively use of comfrey stock
pruning in moderation
The climbing hydrangea grows relatively slowly. A pruning is therefore not absolutely necessary if there is enough space. It may look different when keeping a bucket. The following should be said briefly:
- shorten tendrils by a third in young plants in late winter
- favors bushy growth
- topiary older plants immediately after flowering
- put on new buds in the previous year
- shorten tendrils that are too long to the next leaf bud
- Rinse faded flowers regularly
- remove dead and weak shoots
- Pruning back into the old wood is possible
Climbing and fall protection
Climbing hydrangeas are self-climbing. However, they only have adhesive roots on young shoots. Due to the growth in thickness over the years, the adhesive root can quickly tear off. Then you can only hold on to the young shoots. In wind and storm, the plant can be completely torn off the facade. In addition, you should also attach a rope system to secure plants in a pot.
In order to achieve the desired direction of growth for the climbing hydrangea, a pot or bucket with a climbing aid that is already integrated can be used. The shoots hold on tight here. In addition, climbing aids such as
- Wooden or metal trellis
- vine nets
- wire frame
- cast iron pyramids and obelisks
be used.
Hibernation in bucket
A climbing hydrangea is usually hardy. However, kept in the bucket, some precautions must be taken:
- Wrap pot with insulating material
- Use of bubble wrap, jute bags, garden fleece
- Cover the root ball with brushwood or straw
Alternatively: around the pot including the plant if possible
- pull a wire mesh
- Fill gaps with leaves, straw or soil
In addition, young plants should be completely covered with a breathable hood in the first three to five years during very severe frosts.
Notice: All parts of the plant are slightly poisonous. They can easily cause symptoms of poisoning such as dizziness, nausea or a contact allergy. Gloves should be worn when handling.