Every lawn owner is happy about a healthy, strong green lawn. In addition to the right location and careful care, the right pH value is also important so that the grass can grow vigorously. There is an optimal degree of acidity for a lawn for every type of soil.

In a nutshell

  • A pH value between 5.5 and 7 is optimal
  • concrete pH value depends on soil composition
  • Basically, lawns prefer a rather acidic pH value below 7
  • the lighter and sandy the soil, the more acidic the soil can be
  • a value of more than 7 is too high on all floors, you must always lower it

definition

pH is a measure of how acidic the soil is, with a scale ranging from 0 to 14. A garden soil is neutral if it has a value of 7. If the measurement result is below 7, the soil is acidic or basic. A numerical value of more than 7, on the other hand, means that the soil is alkaline.

Importance of pH

But why is this size important for your lawn? This question is easy to answer: the degree of acidity of the soil gives you information about how well plants can absorb the nutrients contained or supplied through fertilization. Most of the nutrients important for lawn grasses, such as the main nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as other minerals and trace elements such as magnesium, calcium, sulfur and iron, are best available to plants at pH values between 5 and 7.
This in turn means that if the level of acidity is unsuitable, symptoms of deficiency can develop that cannot be controlled with targeted fertilization. For example, if your lawn is only faintly green and rather yellowish, it could be due to chlorosis caused by iron deficiency: Iron is most available at values between 4 and 6, which is why a pH value of more than 7 often promotes iron deficiency due to poor availability.

Ideal pH values for every lawn

Thus, both too low and too high pH values lead to poor lawn growth and to deficiency symptoms. You should therefore always keep an eye on the acidity of the soil when laying out a new lawn, in the course of annual care measures and when problems arise.
In general, a value between 5.5 and 7 is considered optimal for lawns, although this specification is of course very broad and therefore not equally suitable for every type of soil. Institutions such as the respective chambers of agriculture and various lawn scientists specify the recommendations for different soil types as follows:

  • Sandy soils: 4.8 to 5.2
  • loamy sand, sandy silt: 5.2 to 5.6
  • very sandy loam, loamy silt: 5.5 to 5.9
  • sandy loam, loam or loess soil: 5.7 to 6.2
  • loamy or clayey soil: 5.9 to 6.3

Basically, it can be said that lawn grasses prefer acidic soils. Don't know the composition of the soil in your garden? How to determine this is the subject of the next section.

Soil analysis and measurement

There are several ways to determine soil composition and pH for your lawn.

soil analysis

Probably the best method, as it is the most accurate, is professional soil analysis in a specialized laboratory. As a result, you will receive the soil type and not only the specific pH value, but also a list of the nutrients and minerals contained in the soil. In addition, a fertilizer recommendation specifically tailored to your garden soil is included.

Tip: It is generally recommended to have such a soil sample taken about every two to three years in order to be able to react in good time if necessary.

Soil tests for home

If you know your soil composition and just want to check the pH level for your lawn, a test kit to carry out yourself at home is recommended. These are easy to use and deliver fast results that are reliable when used correctly. The disadvantage, however, is that you only receive information about the soil acidity, but no information about its composition and nutrient content.

Tip: So-called indicator plants give a first rough indication of an imbalance in acidity. Dandelion, bindweed, stinging nettle and coltsfoot grow on soil with pH values that are too high for lawn grasses, while horsetail, pansies and wood sorrel grow on soil that is too acidic.

Increase or decrease

If you have found that the pH of the lawn is too high or too low, you should bring it back into the optimal range. If the value is below 5, the soil is too acidic and needs to be neutralized. To do this, increase the acidity with a very simple tool: garden lime. As a rule, about 100 to 200 grams of carbonated lime without any additives are sufficient per square meter of lawn. Alternatively, you can also use bedrock powder.
On the other hand, if the acidity is above 7, the soil is not acidic enough and you need to add acid to it. This can also be done with an organic agent such as leaf humus or peat. In more severe cases, iron sulfate or sulfur are also suitable.

Tip: Even if it is often suspected: moss is not a sign of soil that is too acidic, but merely a sign of wet or heavily compacted soil. The only thing that helps here is scarifying and untangling, and the addition of sand should gradually dry out the soil.

frequently asked Questions

What is the best soil for a lawn?

Lawn grasses do best on sandy loamy soil or humus-rich, loamy sandy soil - even though most grasses in commercial lawn mixtures are basically very adaptable and grow well on many types of soil. However, if the floor is not optimal, the later maintenance effort is higher.

What soil do you use for lawns?

If, instead of soil improvement, potting soil or your own soil mixture is to be applied before sowing, it should consist of half high-quality compost, about 30 to 40 percent humus and ten to 20 percent sand. This layer is optimally 20 to 25 centimeters thick, regardless of whether it is a seed or ready-made lawn.

What is the best way to prepare the soil for sowing a lawn?

Before sowing the lawn seed or laying the finished lawn, the soil must be thoroughly prepared. This should be loosened to a depth of up to approx. 20 centimetres. You do not have to dig up the intended area right away - it is sufficient to pierce and slightly lift the crumbs of earth with a spade and then smooth them. Sowing green manure in front of the lawn in autumn is recommended, which you undermine in spring.

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