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Frost damage to the evergreen cherry laurel is not uncommon. Of course, the winter hardiness of the respective variety also plays a decisive role. The damage can be particularly pronounced in extremely cold winters.

In a nutshell

  • Frost damage does not necessarily mean frostbite
  • in most cases it is rather dry damage
  • Frostbite is solely due to freezing temperatures
  • Drought damage, so-called frost drought, occurs due to a lack of water
  • large-leaved varieties are particularly frequently affected

Frozen or dried up?

It is not easy for laypersons to tell from the damage pattern whether it is due to frostbite or frostbite. Both manifest themselves in brown leaves and leaf loss. Even entire shoots can die off. Most species are generally hardy. However, there are some that are less robust and can easily freeze to death in exceptionally icy temperatures. In most cases, however, frost damage is due to drought damage, the cherry laurel or parts of the plant have dried up.

Frost Drought - most common frost damage

Basically, the plants protect themselves from cold and dehydration by rolling up their leaves. It becomes problematic with a combination of intense winter sun, cold, wind, dry air and a deeply frozen ground over a longer period of time. These factors reinforce each other, the cherry laurel evaporates more water through its large leaves due to the sun. As the ground freezes at the same time, the plant can no longer absorb water and dries up, especially the green parts of the plant. Leaves and shoots turn brown.

Source: I.Sáček, senior, Prunus laurocerasus 10655, edited from Plantopedia, CC0 1.0

damage from frostbite

Frost-sensitive varieties such as Prunus laurocerasus 'Rotundifolia' are particularly susceptible to frostbite. It can freeze back badly in freezing temperatures. If you live in a region where it can get particularly frosty in winter, it is better to choose varieties with good winter hardiness.

  • Specimens with normal winter hardiness do not freeze back completely
  • Damage can only be seen on shoots above the snow cover
  • Snow cover is a very good insulator
  • all parts under the snow cover are adequately protected
  • if there is no snow, frostbite can go deeper
  • Young shoots are particularly at risk
  • The lowest parts, including the roots, usually survive winter without major damage

Tip: For example, the varieties Prunus laurocerasus 'Ethna', 'Herbergii', 'Diana', 'Mount Vernon', 'Otto Luyken' and the Portuguese cherry laurel (Angustifolia) have good winter hardiness.

Measures against frost damage

When winter is over, the full extent of the damage can be seen. But it usually looks more dramatic than it actually is. The stems are usually still green and soon sprout again. You shouldn't start cutting right away, but be patient and wait. If you cut too early, there is a risk of late frosts, which can damage the new shoots.

  • Remove frost damage only after the ice saints
  • new shoots and leaves can usually already be seen
  • Cut out dried or frozen shoots and leaves
  • Cut damaged branches down to healthy wood
  • Completely remove dry knots inside
  • Pruning back by 10-15 cm is usually sufficient
  • If sprouting takes place further down, trim if necessary
  • in the case of extensive damage, shorten to 20 cm (put on the stick)
  • Remove clippings
  • ensure constant soil moisture in the following months
  • administer the first fertilization with the new shoot

prevent frost damage

In order to prevent frost damage to cherry laurel of any kind, it is easiest to pay attention to particularly frost-hardy varieties when planting new ones. This already gives you a very good basis. But even with existing plantings, you can do a lot to counteract such damage.

Adequate winter protection

  • in the form of a mulch layer
  • Spread about ten centimeters thick over the root area
  • also protect the parts above ground
  • with vertical fir branches, fleece or shading net
  • Fleece can prevent excessive evaporation
  • Potted specimens require more protection
  • place in a sheltered place
  • on wooden pallet or styrofoam plate
  • Wrap buckets with burlap, fleece or bubble wrap
  • Cover root area with mulch
  • from bark mulch or dry leaves
  • Buckets should be made of frost-resistant material

Foil to protect the above-ground parts of the plant is completely unsuitable. It doesn't offer any shade and the leaves underneath would get very warm from the winter sun. In addition, no air exchange is possible, which promotes fungal diseases.

Correct fertilization

The right fertilization at the right time can have a positive effect on the winter hardiness of the cherry laurel and prevent frost damage. The last time you fertilize in May/June with a potash fertilizer (patent potash). This ensures that the plants lignify sufficiently by winter and that the leaves also become more resistant to frost.
In any case, nitrogen-rich fertilization in late summer should be avoided. It would encourage late budding. However, the young shoots cannot harden until the first frost. The result would be significant frost damage.

Suitable location

A well-chosen location can also be good frost protection. This evergreen shrub does not tolerate full sun. It feels most comfortable in a sheltered spot in partial shade or shade and should be protected from both direct morning and midday sun and sharp easterly winds.

Optimal watering

Proper watering is particularly important in winter. In autumn it is advisable to water the plants sufficiently. In winter, it must be watered on frost-free days or when the ground is open to avoid frost-drying. After longer periods of frost, when watering is not possible, timely watering is important when the temperatures start to rise. This gives the plants the opportunity to rebalance their water balance.

frequently asked Questions

How long does it take for cherry laurel to recover?

How quickly cherry laurel recovers depends on the frost damage. If only the fresh foothills are affected, it usually recovers within a few weeks. If most of the leaves are frozen but the vascular bundles under the bark are still intact, it can take a few months. Here the plant only has to form new leaves and buds. You can test whether the laurel is still green and juicy under the bark by removing some of the bark.

How fast does cherry laurel grow?

The annual increase depends on the respective variety and the site conditions. As a rule, all varieties are relatively fast-growing. The particularly fast ones can grow up to half a meter per year.

Can plants in pots overwinter indoors?

Specimens in tubs can of course also overwinter indoors, which makes sense, especially in regions with very cold winters. The winter quarters should be bright and unheated with temperatures between three and ten degrees.

Is cherry laurel poisonous?

All parts of this plant are poisonous, but especially the leaves, fruit and seeds. The small black berry-like fruits are formed after flowering. They are definitely dangerous for small children.

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Garden plants