The fig tree (Ficus carica) is mainly pruned in late winter. Pruning measures in summer also make sense in certain cases. We will tell you how and when the summer pruning on the fig tree succeeds.

In a nutshell

  • Summer pruning for improved overwintering ability of the fruit plants
  • severe baldness requires radical pruning measures
  • Exhaustion important in summer
  • watch out for root suckers

basics

Because the fruits of fig trees on shoots from the previous year are ready for harvest between June and July and ideally a second harvest is possible in autumn, summer pruning is usually not recommended. There is a great danger of ruining the harvest by removing buds and fruit plants.

However, since the Central European climate only allows a few autumn harvests, a summer cut is definitely recommended after the first harvest. Various reasons speak for this. However, if growth and plant health permit, cutting should always be postponed to next spring or February/March.

Best time

When the fig tree has recovered after the summer harvest in June/July and is supplying new energy, the ideal time for a summer pruning has come between the end of July and mid-August.

The pruning should never be done later, because the wounds have to heal safely before the cold onset and the usually damp autumn weather would increase the risk of infection from fungal pathogens. In addition, a Ficus carica loses most of the plant sap in autumn. This can lead to a life-threatening condition.

TIP: Even in summer, milky plant sap escapes when cutting, which can cause skin irritation and allergic contact reactions. Therefore, always wear long-sleeved clothing and gloves when cutting.

Maintenance cut in summer

Maintenance pruning is usually done at the beginning of the year. However, if a fig tree still forms infructescence in late summer or early autumn, a second maintenance cut in summer is recommended; especially in old and/or weakened fig trees and in harsh regions. The aim here is to let the tree save energy for (further) fruit development. The fruits usually do not form until they are ready for harvest anyway and can therefore be removed in summer.

The summer maintenance cut includes the following cutting measures:

  • Remove buds and fruit buds/stands
  • shorten new shoots from the current year
  • Cut back a maximum of six to eight leaves
  • Cut off deadwood as close to the base as possible
  • parallel vertical shoots cut off the weaker ones at the base
  • exhaust

NOTICE: Due to these pruning measures, the formation of buds on the shortened shoots is promoted. The buds are better able to overwinter and ensure more aromatic fruits in the following year.

exhaustion

Whether with or without a maintenance cut, stinging shoots should always be cut back in summer. These are infertile side shoots. As a rule, they grow between the summer shoots and petioles. They are superfluous and cost fig trees energy unnecessarily. They should be removed at the latest after five or six leaves have formed, especially in summer. It is precisely then that the plants need all the energy they need for new bud formation and fruit systems, as well as for the winter season. It's best to pinch them off with your fingers.

Cut root shoots

Root shoots usually appear from the third year of life. They develop from the roots and grow into branches. They are usually removed as early as late winter, but during the growing season they may be present again in summer. They have no use and only use important energy reserves for their growth. Other things worth knowing:

  • no formation of new shoots on the main trunk due to root shoots
  • increasingly declining crop yields
  • without root sucker removal, slow dieback begins
  • Cutting measure saves lives in the long term and is therefore an indispensable summer task
  • Make the cut as deep as possible
  • Also cut off secondary branches that branch off to the side

radical cut

If a fig tree has developed poorly during the vegetation period, shows severely bare areas, especially in the crown, or is immensely weakened due to a previous disease or pest infestation, summer is the ideal time for a radical pruning. This allows the fruit trees to recover and put energy into the formation of new, strong shoots as well as leaves and flowers. The following should be noted:

  • Cut back the entire plant to a height of 30 centimetres
  • Cut off branches close to the ground on the trunk
  • Remove root suckers
  • Plug/seal cut of main stem with charcoal ash or candle wax (to avoid fungal infection)
  • perform educational pruning during growth
  • Only carry out radical cuts every four to six years
  • Fruit harvest usually only in the second year after radical pruning

TIP: Experience has shown that fertilizing with a mixture of compost-horn meal/horn shavings or horse manure after a radical cut has been shown to promote sprouting.

frequently asked Questions

Which pruning measures are useful in summer for tub fig trees?

When it comes to summer pruning, fig trees in tubs are treated no differently than specimens in the garden bed. However, you should pay more attention to yellow leaves, dead and diseased branches/shoots and remove them quickly. Due to the limited amount of substrate, potted plants can only absorb and transmit energy to a limited extent. It is all the more important to eliminate unnecessary energy drainers. The instructions for the corresponding procedures for summer cuts can be found in the guide.

What to do if the summer pruning was missed on the fig tree?

In that case, wait until February or March of next year to prune. It is important that the fig tree has not yet started to grow shoots and leaves. As part of the annual care cuts, you can then make up for the recommended summer cuts, if they are still necessary. Sometimes even a severe winter does some pruning work when branches/shoots freeze back. Frequently only frozen fruits from the previous year have to be removed.

Can cut shoots be used for fig tree propagation in summer?

The best time for propagation using cuttings is between May and June, because then most of the energy goes into the shoots. This allows the cuttings to root better. But even after the harvest in June, cuttings can be propagated with cut off shoots from the summer cut. The prerequisite is that a ten centimeter long shoot is available. You should have completed the process by the end of August at the latest, because from September onwards the rooting ability decreases continuously.

Category:

Garden plants