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In winter and summer, actually all year round, cyclamen inspire with their blooms. In addition to the flowers, the poisonous ornamental plant has large leaves that grow from the base and are clearly recognizable. As with many other plants, the leaves of the cyclamen provide information about the health of the plant or the end of the flowering period. Cyclamen owners often wonder what the causes of possible yellowing of the foliage could be.

Causes and countermeasures

Cyclamen are extremely delicate plants and require a lot of care, which makes them not necessarily suitable for beginners. Yellow leaves are a typical sign of care mistakes, which could occur even with the wrong amount of water. The following causes are common in cyclamen and can cause yellow foliage:


Temperature is crucial for healthy growth and green foliage for all cyclamen species. A wrong climate can severely affect the primrose plant and even lead to infestation by spider mites, which like to attack the weak leaves. Only 12 °C to 16 °C are tolerated over the summer, with a maximum of 18 °C for short periods. If 20 °C to 30 °C persists, the plant reacts with drought stress and the tuber can suffer major damage, which in turn causes yellowing of the leaves. Proceed as follows if the plant was too warm:

  • relocate to a cool location
  • prefers cooler temperatures as cyclamens come from high mountainous areas
  • Briefly dip the cyclamen tuber in a water bath until it is soaked
  • then remove yellow foliage, plant does not lose it itself
  • finally put back in the ground

If you remove the yellow foliage, you avoid rotting the tuber, which prevents spider mites from settling.


Too much moisture is also not recommended for the cyclamen. This in turn is noticeable in the original distribution area, which is rather dry. If yourself waterlogging or too much moisture has accumulated in the substrate over a long period of time, the cyclamen reacts with yellow, curled leaves. Too much moisture poses a greater risk, since the outlasting organ is highly susceptible to rot, which can kill off the entire primula growth. If you have overwatered, do the following:

  • remove the flower pot from the planter or saucer
  • let the soil dry completely; this can take quite a long time
  • after the earth has dried, you now need to dip the tuber in water separately
  • the water should be lime-free and lukewarm
  • remove all diseased foliage and even flowers and shoots if affected
  • before planting in the ground, be sure to look at the roots
  • if the roots are rotten, the cyclamen can usually no longer be saved
  • otherwise you can now put this in the ground and the necessary

continue maintenance

Cyclamen do not need much watering. It's always best to make one finger testto avoid too much moisture. The drier the soil, the easier it is to regulate the amount of water. Of course you have to water more in summer, but you should also be careful not to water too often in winter. The water evaporates more poorly during the cool season.


The location for cyclamen must not be too bright. Avoid a full or shaded location and a lot of midday sun, regardless of whether you keep the plant in the garden or on the windowsill. Cool, semi-shady to shady, but bright locations are preferred and ensure lush growth. Heating air should be avoided all year round. Fresh air, on the other hand, is necessary, even in winter.


If you forget to add the necessary fertilizer, cyclamen will react immediately with yellow foliage. The thick tuber needs quite a lot nutrient, in order to be able to form the numerous flowers and foliage. If no other causes are clearly visible, you should think about the fertilizing behavior. Cyclamen are fertilized in the following way:

  • Only fertilize during flowering
  • annual fertilizing begin just before the first flowers sprout
  • falls on the day of the first new leaves of the year
  • The reason for this lies in the individual growth phases of the plant
  • the tuber requires no fertilizer and little water during the dormant period
  • fertilize every two weeks, no more often
  • choose classic liquid fertilizer
  • Cyclamen do not require any special fertilizer
  • alternatively you can use fertilizer sticks
  • the liquid fertilizer is administered via the irrigation water
  • Feed outdoor specimens with compost or an organic-based compound fertilizer in the same manner


The humidity for the cyclamen may not too low otherwise it will react with yellow leaves. Air humidifiers that are not too close to the tuber or coasters filled with granules such as perlite or expanded clay are a good idea here. These can store water and release it to the plant over a long period of time. Outdoors, simply place a bucket or bowl of water next to the plant.

tip: in the majority of cases, the above problems relate to specimens kept in pots. Cyclamen planted freely in the garden can take care of themselves very well, as long as they have a sufficiently shady and cool location available and are watered in dry periods.

loss of leaves

No reason to worry

If cyclamen suffer from leaf loss, you don't have to worry. This is a natural process to prepare for the next flowering period and to store nutrients that are important for bud formation. The loss of leaves begins shortly after the dormant phase, which differs from species to species. For example, with Cyclamen persicum, the indoor variety, the dormant period lasts until the end of August, at which time the plant loses its foliage. The leaves dry up and, if they don't fall off by themselves, can simply be pulled off. However, the foliage should not remain on the plant for too long, otherwise it will follow rot damage.

tip: note that leaf loss and new growth often overlap in Cyclema species. Therefore, if you want to remove dried leaves yourself, you should be particularly careful not to accidentally damage them.

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