- Winterizing basics
- Unpack, clean and assemble
- The technique
- The filter system
- The test operation
- The water
- frequently asked Questions

When the first hot days approach in spring, the desire for cool water also increases. The basics of starting up the pool after the winter break are clearly explained with us.
In a nutshell
- Check the pool, accessories and technology for dirt and damage when unpacking
- Now is the right time for maintenance and repair work
- Check the technology before reinstalling the individual components
- A test run helps to identify and eliminate possible unrecognized difficulties
- Adjust the water quality last to avoid changes caused by cleaning agents etc
Winterizing basics
Generally speaking, starting up your pool in the spring can be done in exactly the opposite way to winterizing it. However, you should not rely on the routine developed there. Because especially when wintering out, there is a great opportunity to identify problems quickly and to fix them before you take the first dip in the cool water. Therefore, proceed conscientiously and attentively with all work. Also pay particular attention to damage or changes that can result in damage over the course of the season.

Unpack, clean and assemble
The first step in spring is to “uncover” all components that have been winterized. You should also use this task right away to do a lot of small side jobs:
- cover pool
- Clean and store pool cover
- Remove, dry, clean and store the ice pressure pads
- Check the water for coarse dirt and fish it off with a fishing net
- Use a pool sponge or brush to remove dirt from the pool walls that have accumulated over the winter
- Get dismantled pool ladder etc. from winter quarters
- clean if necessary
- Treat stainless steel parts with a suitable polish for shine and better protection against rust
- Process plastic parts with plastic cleaner and care products
- Finally reassemble the components and check for a secure hold
Tip: If your pool cover is stretched tightly over the pool and is not hanging in the pool water, you can easily clean it directly on the pool and let it dry. Do the cleaning the day before you actually winter out so you can get started without delays.
The technique
Both removed and permanently installed technology must now be put back into working order in the spring:
maintenance and repair. Thoroughly inspect all components removed before winter and perform comprehensive component maintenance.

- Remove dirt / dust
- Visual inspection of the housing, power cable, seals, etc. for cracks, fractures or other damage
- Replace defective components
- Eliminate possible rust film on metal components
- Lightly grease the rubber seals with acid-free grease
- Check moving parts for ease of movement
- Loosen stuck parts with penetrating oil (e.g. WD40, Ballistol or Karamba).
- Lubricate all moving parts with water resistant lubricant
- In the case of electrical components (e.g. pumps): Establish a power connection and check that the device is working properly
- Visually inspect lines with all connections, connections and inlets/outlets
- If necessary, remove dirt, animals and other foreign objects that have got in
- Insert components and make all connections with power and water-carrying lines
Notice: It makes sense to check the function of pumps before installation. Never let them run dry, but place them in a water-filled bucket or vat for the test run. This allows you to see the pump output immediately without the device running dry and being damaged.
The filter system
A key element in any pool is the filter. Depending on the installed system, the work steps look different here:
For textile filters / sieve filters:
- Check filter insert for damage and dirt and insert
- Use a new filter insert if necessary
For sand filters:
- Check the filter sand for dirt and clumps
- Loosen or sieve sand
- Replace dirty sand
- Check the amount of sand and add sand if necessary

The test operation
Before the actual commissioning of your pool, a trial operation will help you to test the functionality of all components. You can also immediately identify malfunctions, leaks and many other unwanted problems.
Before you turn on the power switch, make sure there is enough water in the pool. During the winter, you have lowered the water level to such an extent that pipes can run empty and remain permanently ice-free. When wintering out, you must now ensure that the intake actually finds water to suck in. Otherwise your pump will run dry. On the one hand you cannot check the correct function in this way. On the other hand, there is also the risk of damage due to the lack of a cooling effect of the water.
- Check all connections, covers, etc. for correct and secure seating
- Remove any remaining winter plugs
- Establish power supply
- put the plant into operation
- Check for correct function after the start-up phase
- Pay attention to signs of malfunctions, such as leaking water, unusual noises, smells, etc
- If necessary, switch off the system and rectify the error
Notice: Give the components of your pool technology enough time to get used to each other again. The test run should therefore take at least a quarter of an hour. Make sure that the pool is always under supervision, otherwise you will not be able to identify malfunctions with certainty.

The water
If everything is clean, completely installed and ready for operation, the last thing left is to restore the water quality suitable for bathing:
The pH
The optimum pH value for bathing is 7.2. In general, the range from 7.0 to 7.4 is still considered acceptable. Use pH test strips to determine the existing value and adjust it to the desired value if necessary.
For pH increase:
- soda
- sodium
- Special pH value raisers
To lower the pH value:
- sodium bisulfate
- hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid)
- Special pH value reducers

chlorine
Typically, you should adjust the chlorine level in your pool water to between 0.5 and 1.0 mg per liter of pool water. In the case of particularly high temperatures or intensive operation, on the other hand, the value can be increased by around 0.2 mg per liter. Determine the level of chlorine present. With a probability bordering on certainty, the value is likely to be too low, since the chlorine has broken down over the winter. Use your pool's existing chlorination facility to bring the level back up. Shock chlorination can be useful, especially at the start of the season, to quickly replace the missing chlorine.
Attention: Your pool's pH and chlorine levels are closely related. Test both values in the course of the water regulation and adjust if necessary.
frequently asked Questions
I did all the work carefully during the winter. Why should I go through all the effort for checking and maintenance again when wintering?During the winter, your pool is left to its own devices for a longer period of time. At the same time, the environmental impact of frost, moisture and wind is particularly high. There is therefore always a risk that even the optimally wintered pool will show dirt or damage to individual parts when it is wintered out.
Upon uncovering, I noticed large amounts of dirt in the pool. What do I have to pay particular attention to now?On the one hand, you should remove the dirt before you start using it. Otherwise your filter will get dirty before you take your first bath. You should also check your cover for damage to avoid soiling in the coming winter.
I've read that vinegar is a good home remedy for lowering pH. Is that right?From a purely chemical point of view, vinegar is perfectly suitable for lowering the pH value of your pool in a “natural” way. However, it is an organic acid that can often contain other additives, from sugar to suspended matter and other supplements. These things are the basis for rapid multiplication of bacteria and other microorganisms. As a result, when using vinegar, you need more chlorine to keep the pool water clean.