The heart of many gardens is a beautiful lawn - even after years. If the old lawn is gone, rolled turf can be laid on the old lawn with little effort and without expensive tools. We explain how it works.

In a nutshell

  • mow the old lawn as short as possible before laying it
  • test and improve soil quality if necessary
  • Rolled turf areas need more time on old turf before they can be walked on than directly on the ground
  • Rolled goods need less water after laying than sowing, as there is no germination phase

Rolled turf on old lawns?

Normally, plants need loose, fresh soil for successful growth. In contrast, areas that are already populated and sometimes depleted are less suitable for new planting. And although the individual lawn plants are already fully developed in the case of rolled goods, they too have to find contact with the ground in the same way and anchor themselves deeply there. It is therefore possible to lay rolled turf on existing lawns, but only to a limited extent. The following problems can occur:

  • high soil compaction due to previous lawn use
  • consequently low water storage capacity of the soil
  • resulting in more difficult penetration of the new roots into the existing soil
  • leached soil through similar use in advance
  • Unevenness that occurs later due to decomposition of the old lawn in the ground

Notice: Surely there was a reason your previous lawn wasn't thriving. Your turf will probably have the same problems in the long run if you don't identify the difficulties in advance and improve the conditions.

In return, you will find some clear advantages in the direct laying of the rolled turf on the existing area, the so-called sandwich construction:

  • lower expense
  • no removal of the old lawn necessary
  • no extensive soil preparation necessary or possible

Step by step to the sandwich construction

If you have nevertheless decided to lay the rolled goods directly on the existing lawn, you should heed the following approach in order to optimize the chances of success and to be able to complete the work quickly and with reasonable effort.

tools and aids

  • pH test strips
  • lawn lime or coniferous or oak compost, depending on requirements
  • lawn mower or string trimmer
  • scarifier
  • rake
  • garden soil or lawn substrate
  • knife
  • lawn roller
  • Universal lawn fertilizer
  • garden hose and lawn sprinkler or circular sprinkler

The approach

Laying is guaranteed to succeed with these 5 steps.

Step 1 - Mow and fluff

First of all, despite the remaining layer of lawn, you create the necessary conditions for the subsoil by largely eliminating the disadvantageous properties of the already overgrown soil:

  • Mow the lawn to the lowest cutting depth
  • alternatively remove stalks flush with the ground with a line trimmer
  • Thoroughly remove and dispose of grass clippings
  • Scarify soil intensively with maximum working depth
  • Thoroughly remove and dispose of loosened plant parts

Notice: The more organic plant components you remove here, the less biomass can later rot under the turf. The probability of the rot being transferred to the new turf, as well as uncontrolled settlements due to the decomposition of the biomass, are avoided in the best possible way.

Step 2 - Soil improvement

Now prepare the soil to serve as a solid and reliable basis for growth for the new turf plants:

  • Determine the soil pH value using test strips and compare it with the specifications of the turf manufacturer
  • If necessary, adjust the soil pH value:
  • acidic soil (too low pH value) due to lawn lime
  • alkaline soil (pH too high) from acidic coniferous or oak compost
  • Distribute the materials over the surface of the scarified floor and pour it intensively over it, then wait about a day or two before taking the next steps
  • Apply universal lawn fertilizer to the surface according to the manufacturer's instructions

Step 3 - Balance

Although the sandwich construction does not actually entail any intervention in the subsoil, there is now the possibility of filling in any dents or depressions in the existing lawn:

A thin layer of soil can be applied to level out sinks.
  • Fill sinks with garden soil or lawn substrate
  • Level the surface with a rake
  • Press filling with roller
  • repeat the process if necessary

Notice: Be careful not to apply excessive layer thicknesses. Otherwise, perceptible subsidence is to be expected here due to the different soil density, so that dents will appear again. In the case of severe unevenness, you should sprinkle the filled soil intensively before laying the lawn to support the settlement.

Step 4 - Laying

Now lay the lawn according to the manufacturer's instructions:

  • Starting at a straight edge of the lawn, roll out the lengths next to each other, tightly joined
  • Use a knife to cut out strips on bushes, fences and other "fittings" and fit them in
  • After laying, press the surface firmly onto the ground with a roller
  • Finally, water the new lawn intensively for several days

Notice: Although a rolled turf also needs a lot of water at the beginning, the need is significantly lower than after sowing. Since there is no germination phase, daily watering is sufficient to maintain the basic moisture in the soil and stimulate root growth.

Step 5 - Maintain

In order for the rolled turf to be able to develop its roots deep enough into the subsoil through the old turf, however, it must also be cared for and encouraged to grow intensively:

  • Mow the lawn for the first time after about 4 weeks
  • not fall below the cutting depth of 5 to 6 centimetres
  • then mow regularly to stimulate growth
  • water regularly as the dryness increases
  • Ideally, fertilize twice a year in spring and autumn with a universal fertilizer

Notice: Since the roots of the rolled turf first have to break through the old layer of turf on their way to the ground, the waiting time before it can be used is a little longer than with a turf laid directly on the ground. Add about two weeks to the normal time span.

frequently asked Questions

Can the old turf grow into the joints of the rolled turf?

No, this is not possible. Since the old plants under the turf receive no light and only limited air, the plants decompose. If the stalks are not cut back too much, they serve as food for rotting bacteria, which can then also attack the roots of the turf.

How much does the floor level increase due to the sandwich construction?

Since they do not change the old floor, the thickness of the rolled turf is added to the old floor level. This is usually about five centimetres. You should take into account the change in level above all at discounts, terrace exits and other transitions.

Does damage to the old lawn make a difference?

no Since the old turf will rot in the ground anyway, it doesn't matter how badly the lawn was damaged before it was laid. The less living biomass is still available, the lower the risk of rot. In the worst case, it can also attack the turf and damage the roots from below.

Does it make sense to put a layer of sand on the old lawn?

The sand enables the roots of the rolled turf to develop quickly, but this ends when the root veins encounter the barrier of the solidified subsoil in the existing lawn. In addition, the sand layer is not able to store water. A sustainable promotion of rolled turf is therefore not to be expected.

Category:

Garden design