Help the development of the site, sharing the article with friends!

Raspberry bushes promise rich yields and are therefore missing in a few gardens. However, raspberry growth regularly gets out of hand, so a root barrier is a must. Our guide explains how to do this correctly.

In a nutshell

  • without a root barrier, raspberries tend to spread widely
  • Raspberries can develop roots up to 30 centimeters deep
  • Nutrient and water deficiencies act as drivers of lateral spread of the raspberry plant
  • water-permeable root barriers affect the ecological soil balance less than dense barriers

Step by step to raspberries with root barrier

Done correctly, root barriers help you to effectively counteract the spread of the raspberry plant. Even with simple tools and comparatively little effort, you can achieve a very securely functioning solution.

What does a root barrier look like?

Raspberries are flat-rooted. This means that their roots penetrate only a little bit in depth, but then develop mainly laterally. This means that a barrier has to be erected right there - i.e. around the plant - to limit the root system. If this is reached, the individual root veins also search deeper for further development possibilities, but this is the end after just a few centimetres. This means for the practical implementation of the locking device:

  • closed ring around the plant for all-round limitation
  • Depth of the barrier for a secure barrier effect root depth 30 centimeters + "reserve" = approx. 40 centimeters from the surface
  • provide sufficient development space between the plant and the dam, otherwise growth will quickly stagnate and the yield will decrease

Notice: A complete, all-round wrapping of the root ball with blocking materials should be avoided because of the negative impact on the water balance of the soil.

tools and aids

Before starting the work, it is best to prepare all the necessary things so that you can then install the root barrier for the raspberries without annoying interruptions.

tool

  • spade
  • possibly wheelbarrow / bucket
  • scissors

Other tools

  • plastic tarp
  • possibly Sand, humus or bark mulch for soil improvement

Suitable materials for the barrier

  • Water-permeable root fleece (very suitable)
  • Pond liner (moderately suitable due to the blocking effect)
  • Concrete borders (moderately suitable due to complete separation of the floors inside and outside the dam)
  • Bed partitions made of metal (particularly CorTen steel moderately suitable due to the blocking effect, titanium zinc or copper unsuitable due to the release of substances harmful to the soil)

Attention: Plastic plates, which are repeatedly suggested as barriers, should be avoided at all costs because of plasticizers and other harmful substances!

The preparation

Before you start with the actual work, you need to make a few preliminary considerations. Because the raspberry tends to increase its width, especially when there is a lack of water and nutrients, in search of the hoped-for necessities. The better the planting site is, the less this additional "incentive" appears, so that the effectiveness of your efforts is further supported. The ideal location can vary depending on the variety, but raspberries generally prefer a partially shaded to sunny location.

The right time

Ideally, you set up the root barrier when planting the raspberry. In this way you avoid damage to an existing plant from the outset by digging. The best planting time for this is generally given as summer, i.e. June to August. If, on the other hand, you install the locking device later, it is advisable to install it when the plants are in their resting phase and possible damage to the root system has only minor effects. This means that you should do the work between November and February when there is little vegetation.

Implementation in 5 steps

Now that you have completed all the preparatory work, you can start working. We assume that you will install the root barriers at the same time as planting the raspberries. When retrofitting, the work steps for planting and soil improvement are omitted.

excavation

  • Determine the location and the size of the bush
  • Staking out the course of the barrier, approx. 40 centimeters on all sides outside the outer edge of the shrub (current state or planned maximum size)
  • Store floor material on the side on stable foil, e.g. fabric tarpaulin
  • Excavation depth at least 40, preferably 50 centimeters
  • Cut off the side edges vertically with a spade

Install the root barrier

  • Root barrier before planting the raspberries vertically on lateral. Position the edge of the pit, fix with soil if necessary
  • Note the minimum depth of 40 centimetres, let them end flush with the surface at the top
  • When attaching new pieces, allow for an overlap of around 10 to 20 centimeters (foils, fleece, etc.)
  • Push concrete borders tight

Make the right substrate

Prepare existing soil excavation if necessary:

  • Humus or compost for additional nutrients
  • Horn meal or shavings as a nitrogen supplier
  • Alternatively: incorporate universal fertilizer
  • Sand for loosening heavily loamy soils
  • Bark mulch for alkaline soils
  • Lime or rock flour if the soil is too acidic
  • Possibly mulch or chopped straw to increase the water absorption capacity

The planting

  • Cover the bottom of the pit loosely with about 5 to 10 centimeters of substrate
  • Set the plant in the middle of the planting trough
  • Fill evenly on all sides, pressing on in layers
  • backfill up to the top edge of the site
  • water intensively

rework and maintenance

  • Water intensively for the first 5 to 7 days until root growth is stimulated
  • Top up soil that settles
  • Maintain soil characteristics by fertilizing, if necessary incorporating compost, mulch, etc. and check regularly

frequently asked Questions

Can I trim raspberry bushes before installing the root barrier?

If your raspberries have grown too big, you can simply cut them off during the dormant phase from late autumn to early spring. Provide sufficient nutrients so that the root damage that has occurred is well compensated.

What am I doing wrong when the raspberry breaks the lock?

Either the barrier doesn't go deep enough or it has gaps. Especially with impacted borders made of concrete, the impacts offer numerous weak points for the encroaching roots.

Are raspberry root locks different from other locks?

Basically, all root barriers are very similar. Depending on the plant species, the depth in the soil should be adjusted. On the other hand, only very few plants develop such a high root pressure that common materials are not sufficient.

Help the development of the site, sharing the article with friends!

Category: