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The Monstera is a popular classic among indoor plants. It scores with its large green or variegated leaves, but rarely forgives care mistakes. How to recognize and treat the most common Monstera diseases.

In a nutshell

  • Signs of some diseases can appear suddenly
  • are very often due to errors in maintenance
  • first show up in the texture of the leaves
  • turn yellow or brown depending on the type of disease
  • healthy plants are strong and their leaves are lush green

eyespot disease

If location problems can be ruled out as the cause of brown leaves or spots, it may be the so-called eye spot disease. This disease requires quick action to save your Monstera

A regular supply of your Monstera with plant decoction, for example from the field horsetail (Equisetum arvense) shown here, makes the plant much more resistant to diseases.


  • leaves brown spots with a light halo on the leaves
  • one of those diseases that spreads slowly
  • Spots eventually cover the entire leaf
  • fungal pathogen called Spilocaea oleagina is polluter


  • act quickly in the event of an infestation
  • cut off any infected leaves to control
  • only dispose of in household waste
  • this step is often sufficient
  • can at least contain infestation
  • fight with copper-based preparations if the infestation pressure is high
  • preventively strengthen leaves of weakened plants with plant decoctions
  • for example from field horsetail or liverwort extract

Tip: The cutting tools used should be disinfected before and after the cut in order not to pass on diseases.

Leaf chlorosis (chlorosis)

The signs of many diseases in the window leaf go back to care errors. If you then eliminate the cause, the plant usually recovers quickly. However, this assumes that their condition has not lasted too long, the errors are not too serious and the Monstera is not too badly damaged.

If you only use lime-free or low-lime water for watering and spraying, you will get it your monstera thank you with a long life.


  • Consequence of prolonged growth disorders
  • caused by excess lime in the soil
  • which in turn leads to iron deficiency
  • appears first on young shoots and leaves
  • later passed to older ones
  • Leaves turn yellow
  • Leaf veins mostly remain green
  • Leaf edges dry up


  • Remedy creates immediate repotting
  • use fresh substrate
  • only water with lime-free water in the future
  • alternatively, use low-calcium or well-stale water

leaf spot disease

Most are harmful fungi of the genera Ascochyta, Alternaria or Septoria triggers for diseases like these. The cause of this disease can also be found in the care of your Monstera. In the case of the window leaf, this can be a substrate that is too moist during the resting phase, too high humidity with simultaneously too little air circulation, a too cold location or too cold irrigation water. There are no effective home remedies for combating leaf spot disease.

Leaf spot disease on tomatoes caused by the Septoria fungus.


  • brownish to blackish spots on leaves first sign of infestation
  • soon spread over the entire leaf
  • get bigger and run into each other
  • affected leaves fall off
  • The color, shape and size of the spots vary depending on the pathogen
  • often a dark border can be seen
  • inside are the fruiting bodies


  • infected leaves must be removed and discarded
  • cut out affected areas of very large leaves
  • For optical reasons it is better to remove the complete sheet
  • Combat leaf spot disease successfully with suitable fungicides
  • preventively pay attention to better culture conditions
  • Avoid maintenance mistakes as much as possible

Tip: When removing infested leaves or parts of leaves, it is advisable to disinfect the cutting tools used before or after each cut to prevent the fungal pathogens from spreading.

Nutrient deficiency or excess

If the Monstera loses leaves as soon as new ones appear, this can be an indication of a nutrient deficiency. Both in the case of a nutrient deficiency and in the event of over-fertilization, action should be taken as quickly as possible. This is the only way to keep the damage to the plant as low as possible.

In order to regulate the nutrient balance of the Monstera again, it is often advisable to repot the plant.


  • Monstera loses leaves when there is a lack of nutrients
  • usually as soon as new ones form
  • Over-fertilization much more dangerous
  • Brown leaf edges can indicate this


  • start fertilizing as soon as possible in the event of deficiency symptoms
  • in summer about every two weeks in winter about every six weeks
  • Dilute the respective fertilizer heavily
  • if over-fertilized, flush excess nutrients from the soil
  • place the plant in question in the tub or shower
  • Then rinse the soil thoroughly several times with a soft jet of water
  • then allow excess water to drain off well
  • alternatively repot the plant in fresh soil
  • completely remove rotten spots in the root area

To be on the safe side, immediately repot the window leaf in fresh substrate. The most important thing here is to remove all rotten spots in the root area. The old soil must also be completely removed from the bale. If the old pot is to be used again, it should be cleaned thoroughly. After planting in fresh soil, watering is avoided in the following days.


In its natural locations, the Monstera grows between and under larger plants in the semi-shade. For this reason, it also has these large slits or holes in the leaves, through which it is supplied with sufficient light. There is a risk of sunburn in a too bright or sunny place in the apartment.

If your Monstera shows such spots, you should definitely think about moving your plant.


  • Signs of sunburn are light brown, dry spots
  • appear on the leaves
  • mostly on the leaf edges and tips


  • change location immediately
  • Ideally place in partial shade
  • Avoid multiple location changes
  • Monstera is very sensitive to this
  • recovers relatively quickly at the new location
  • damaged leaves can be cut off

Tip: What can also make the window leaf ill is cold stress, which can arise if it is constantly exposed to cold temperatures or draughts. Here, too, countermeasures can be taken with the right choice of location.

root rot

The first symptoms of root rot often appear relatively late. The cause is usually too much moisture. This can be caused by excessive watering, but also unsuitable substrates.

When it comes to watering your Monstera, your instincts are required.


  • typical signs: signs of wilting on the leaves
  • often mistakenly perceived as drought damage
  • fatally tempted to water even more
  • Permanently wet soil inhibits root growth in the long term
  • fine roots cannot absorb either water or nutrients
  • Supply comes to a standstill


  • act immediately if there are indications of rot
  • Monstera may die as you progress
  • repot as soon as possible in fresh and dry substrate
  • remove old soil and rotten root parts
  • Don't forget the drainage layer
  • do not water in the first few days after repotting

frequently asked Questions

What happens with leaf chlorosis?

In this disease, chlorophyll (leaf green) is broken down or not formed properly. Plants need this to convert sunlight into usable energy. The metabolism is disturbed, the plant sheds the leaves, dies and stops growing.

Can root rot be avoided?

What helps best and at the same time prevents is watering as needed. A finger test should be carried out before each pour and only pour again when the upper substrate layer has dried well. If root rot is suspected, repot immediately.

Is there a disease if the Monstera leaves don't divide?

The Monstera usually only forms the typical indentations or holes over the years or with age. In some cases, too dark a location can be the cause, but it is not a disease.

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