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A fig tree (Ficus carica) can be kept small and “juvenile” with special pruning techniques. However, this requires proper pruning instructions, which are discussed below.
In a nutshell
- right time for pruning is important
- Perform education and rejuvenation pruning
- Radical pruning for very light, senile fig trees
basics
A fig can grow to a height of more than five meters in local areas. For many a hobby gardener, this is too high. Apart from that, the Mediterranean plant loses vitality with every meter of height and age. As a result, the Ficus carica can become lighter and lighter, thereby continuously reducing fruit formation. If you want to keep your fig tree small, you can't avoid cutting it either. It is important to use the right cutting technique at the right time.
education cut
With training pruning, you can keep a fig tree small from the start. This is especially important for tub cultivation, so that no huge plant develops that can no longer be moved to the winter quarters.
Best time
If a fig tree overwinters outdoors in mild regions, it should be pruned in late winter between mid-February and mid-March.
Tub specimens are pruned when moved outside from winter quarters. It is advisable to wait until the adjustment phase is over. These should be preserved fig trees to get used to the warming sun. Otherwise there is a risk of burns. Because cutting always means stress for the plants, a time in the middle to the end of March is ideal. If the winter is mild and tubs are used to the fresh air early on, pruning can begin as early as mid-February.
Ideally, training pruning should begin with young plants.
manual
- Immediately after planting: remove all bottom shoots except for the middle shoot at the base
- Cut off regularly except for four side shoots (basic structure) on the central shoot
- Guide center drive straight up through support bracket; here stem extension forms to the crown
- To develop the crown, only cut the central shoot when at least four buds are visible above the desired crown base
- then cut off the tip at least one centimeter above the buds
- Cut the sapling in a pyramid shape from bottom to top
- Frequency: once a year, depending on growth rate and desired height; slight corrective cuts possible at the end of July to mid-August
Notice: Shorten the middle shoot tip before four or six buds have formed, "educate" yourself a meager growth and keep the fig tree so small.
taper cut
A rejuvenation cut stimulates old wood shoots to form new shoots. This leads to a revitalization of older fig trees in particular and ensures dense foliage and high fruit yields.
Best time
For the rejuvenation cut, choose a date before the first leaves sprout. This is usually the case until the late winter months of February and March. If budding is already in full swing, too much energy is being put into this process. As a result, there is a lack of energy and strength to let new shoots grow from the "sleeping eyes" and fig trees to look young.
taper cut
- Cut off frostbitten branches
- remove dead old wood at the base
- direct remaining branches to deep side shoots that lead outwards
- intersecting branches that are close to each other with the "loosen up" section
- Cutting frequency: annually; Exception: pruning of bottom shoots only necessary every five to ten years
Tip: A look at the tissue helps to clearly identify dead branches as such. To do this, the branch is lightly scratched. If a dry, brownish tissue appears under the bark, it is a dead branch.
radical cut
If a fig tree has not been pruned for many years and it is very sparse with fruit growth disorders, a rejuvenation pruning is often no longer sufficient. Then a radical pruning can give the decrepit Ficus carica new “youthfulness”. However, this also means a lack of fruit formation at least for the cutting year.
manual
- choose a frost-free winter day between the end of February and the beginning of April during the leaf-free period
- Shorten the tree to 30 centimeters
- make no further cuts during the year
- Cut off half of the strongest shoots in the following year
- Remove the remaining side shoots at the base and make an educational cut
- Frequency: as infrequently as possible and never two years in a row
Notice: When pruning, and especially radical pruning, it is possible for a large amount of milky sap to escape from fig trees. Contact with the skin can cause itching and allergies with a rash and eczema, which is why you should always wear gloves and long clothing when cutting.
frequently asked Questions
How can severely frozen fig trees be given new energy?In order to revitalize extensively frozen/frozen fig trees, only a radical pruning usually helps. How to proceed is described in the guide with appropriate instructions. In most cases, the affected plants recover and sprout again in the same year.
Why shouldn't a fig tree be rejuvenated in the fall?A pruning always means an intervention in natural processes and a high burden for a fig tree. This is particularly the case in autumn, because the Ficus carica is then already preparing for the winter and the much-needed hibernation. A pruning would demand a lot from the tree and, in the worst case, weaken it too much for the winter season.
What role do leading branches play in keeping fig trees small?The leading branches form the basic framework. The branches that take care of the dense growth and ultimately the growth height and width go from them. Regular pruning of the main branches and removal of old branched branches allows new shoots to grow for a young appearance.