Hydrangeas (Hydrangea) inspire with a long flowering period and impressive flowers, which are an ornament even in winter. These attractive permanent bloomers are particularly easy to care for, but many hobby gardeners are uncertain when it comes to pruning. This is important to keep in mind if you want to cut hydrangeas in spring.

In a nutshell

  • Timing and intensity of pruning depend on the hydrangea species
  • divided into two cut groups: cut group 1 and 2
  • Cutting to build up, thin out and rejuvenate
  • Main cutting time in early spring

Note cutting group

In order to be able to enjoy this bloom year after year and to keep the plants in shape, most hydrangea shrubs should be pruned regularly. When the right time has come and, above all, how much pruning is allowed, is decided by the respective species or the corresponding pruning group.

cutting group 1cutting group 2
flowering behavior- bloom on last year's wood- bloom on new wood
cutting time- from the beginning of March
- when no more night frosts are to be expected		- from the end of February
- much more hardy
Hydrangea Species- Peasant hydrangea
- Oakleaf Hydrangea
- Giant Leaf Hydrangea
- Velvet hydrangea
- Plate Hydrangea 		- snowball hydrangea
- Panicle Hydrangea
Velvet hydrangea (Hydrangea sargentiana) and snowball hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)

Cutting group 1 cut a little

In order not to damage the fresh shoots or even remove them completely, hydrangeas in this pruning group should not be pruned too hard in spring. With these species, the pruning should generally be rather small. Ideally, you start in the first three years by gradually building up a shrub framework by first selecting the strongest and most promising shoots from one, two and three year old shoots.

  • Cut off excess shoots close to the ground
  • annuals with scaffolding function do not cut in the first three years
  • From the fourth year, thin out the oldest scaffolding shoots at the base
  • remove withered inflorescences
  • Start the cut below the flower
  • above first pair of buds
  • Cut out dead and weak shoots without beginning
  • Cut off frozen shoot tips in winter
  • at the level of the first healthy bud
  • remove crossing and inward growing branches

Older hydrangeas in this cutting group, where flowering is already fading and bare foliage is progressing, can be pruned for rejuvenation from the end of January to the first of March. All senile shoots are thinned out, the best bottom shoots are left standing and these are shortened by one to two thirds. The cut should again be made just above a pair of buds.

Make the cut just above the first new bud.

Notice: Hydrangeas from this pruning group are a little more sensitive to frost and can freeze back a bit in severe winters. As a result, pruning measures in autumn are not recommended.

Cut group 2 more heavily

Group 2 hydrangeas are usually trimmed twice a year. As already mentioned, the first cut takes place in early spring and can even be heavier. Here, too, it is advisable to first set up a shrub framework.

  • select five to seven bottom shoots in the second year
  • Shorten close to a pair of eyes to 20-30 cm
  • Remove ground shoots that do not belong to the scaffolding
  • Let the skeleton shoots grow to the desired final height over the next two to three years
  • Cut side branches back to two eyes
  • from the fifth year shape and thinning pruning
  • remove two of the oldest scaffold shoots close to the ground
  • shorten annuals to 20 cm
  • Cut side branches back to a pair of eyes
  • Remove deadwood immediately
Panicle hydrangeas can be pruned harder.

Tip: After flowering in autumn, a second cut is usually made. After that, these species often bloom again.

Built-up cut not fundamental

If you want to do without a growth cut, the pruning measures are limited to shortening all bottom shoots to short stubs with a pair of eyes and removing dead wood. A long, this year's shoot with a terminal inflorescence sprout from each eye, and the number of branches doubles every year. The oldest shoots are thinned out at the base and the one-year-olds are shortened to 30-40 cm. Only two pairs of eyes remain of the one-year-old side shoots.

Use quality tools

The basic equipment includes secateurs and a folding saw for cutting thicker branches. When it comes to pruning shears, you have the choice between bypass shears with two blades and anvil shears with just one blade. The bypass shears are suitable for soft and thin wood, while anvil shears cut hard and dry wood. Bypass scissors also have the advantage that they make precise cuts, the edges of the cut do not fray and bruises are avoided. Both secateurs are also available as telescopic scissors, which are suitable for cutting large types of hydrangea. At best, the tools can be disassembled, which makes cleaning and replacing blades and/or saw blades easier.

Tip: The cutting tools should be sharpened and disinfected before cutting to prevent the ingress of fungi and other pathogens and to avoid bruises.

Avoid cutting errors

For a beautiful shape, healthy growth and lush flowering, gross mistakes when cutting should be avoided as far as possible. As a result, there are a few things to consider when pruning hydrangeas in spring:

  • Only remove wilted inflorescences after winter
  • protect blossoms from frost damage
  • preferably break it out by hand
  • accelerates bud formation
  • Panicle and viburnum hydrangeas should not be cut too late or too weakly
  • the later the cut, the later the flowering
  • with weak pruning, no strong shoots, no large flowers
  • do not cut off all shoots at ground level
  • Habitus of the plants would be lost

frequently asked Questions

How can pruning group 1 hydrangeas be encouraged to branch better?

If you want these plants to branch better, you can shorten some of the particularly long shoots a little deeper, even in spring. However, these shoots will not flower in the current year.

Are there exceptions to cutting measures in spring?

Exceptions are in particular the varieties 'Endless Summer' and 'Forever & Ever', both modern varieties of farmer's hydrangea. While the classic farmer's hydrangea only cuts off faded blooms, these two varieties can also be cut back more in spring because they bloom on that year's wood.

Is there anything to watch out for in terms of toxicity?

Since the toxic ingredients can cause so-called contact allergies in the form of skin irritation in sensitive people through contact with the plant, it is best to wear gloves when cutting. Otherwise, hydrangea poses a risk that should not be underestimated, especially when consuming larger quantities. All parts of the plant are poisonous.

Category:

Garden plants