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In order for a bonsai not to lose its aesthetics as a miniature tree, regular pruning is necessary. Pruning is an extremely important and ongoing job when caring for a bonsai. However, caution is advised, because if you prune it incorrectly or too often, you will overwhelm the bonsai. The pruning is used for shaping and its permanent preservation. Certain editing techniques can be clearly defined in terms of timing. Others, on the other hand, should be applied with a great deal of sensitivity based on empirical values.
Cut Guidelines
Pruning is an important process in cultivating a bonsai. In general, value is placed on the development of a thick trunk that branches well. When the trunk has reached a sufficient thickness, the gardener should turn to the branches. Especially the main branches should be strong and have a nice shape. Regular pruning is essential to improve branch thickening. Exactly when a bonsai should be pruned depends on its age and tree species. The same applies to the type of pruning and its frequency. In addition, the aesthetic criteria and the health of the little tree play an important role.
- only work with sharp cutting tools
- Thoroughly clean tools both before and after
- Treat larger cuts (from 0.3-0.4 cm) with wound closure
- Close the wound immediately after the cut
- Topiary is due every 1-2 years, ideally in June
- Perform leaf pruning in summer
- Apply root cutting when repotting
- If the crown is severely cut back, also cut back the roots
- Never trim and wire bonsai at the same time
- allow sufficient time to recover after pruning
topiary
When sprouting begins in spring, it is necessary to repeatedly shorten the growing new shoots. This is the only way to preserve the small bonsai form. First, the shoots should be able to grow so that there are some leaves there. Only then is the shape pruning carried out with each shoot. If a bonsai is to get its concise shape quickly, then it should not be shortened too little. Otherwise the tree can become bare and leave an inharmonious impression. In order to get a full and squat tree crown, a lot should be shortened. The new shoots grow promptly from the remaining leaf axils.
- allow about 6 to 8 leaves to grow on the shoots
- then cut back to 1 or 2 leaves
- don't be too careful when cutting
- Bonsai need vigorous pruning
- Always cut at an angle to the desired direction of growth
- prune just above a knot
- completely remove unwanted branches
- especially the branches that grow straight out of the trunk
coniferous bonsai
Shape pruning of needle bonsai
The shape of the needle bonsai is a little different. In this case, the shoots should be pinched in spring before the first needles appear. In this way, growth in length is reduced and the desired branching is stimulated. If the pruning is not sufficient, the branches will grow too long and destroy the overall appearance of the tree. Only when the branches branch well does the shape of a bonsai emerge. In general, coniferous trees do not sprout from old wood, which must always be removed.
- Stimulate new growth by pruning
- Thin out the tree to let the sun inside
- in the spring, shorten the shoot candles to a third of their length
- then also shorten the drive candles that are formed
- Completely cut away completely new drive plugs
- do not cut too deeply into older wood
- otherwise the branch will no longer sprout
leaf cut
With leaf pruning, the leaves and needles are pruned during the growing season so that the next time the leaves sprout, the leaves are much smaller. That is why this cutting technique is also called the educational cut. The undesired new shoots on the trunk include shoots that grow vertically upwards. However, cross-growing, too densely growing and too far down the trunk shoots should also be removed. In addition, shoots that shoot up too quickly should be shortened or removed. It should be noted that if the bonsai is pruned frequently, but only a little, growth will not be stimulated as much. With an infrequent but generous pruning of the leaves, further growth is much more stimulated.
- ideally prune leaves and shoots every 2 years
- held throughout the summer
- generally remove shoots that disturb the overall picture
- Leaf size must match tree size
- remove oversized leaves
- Leave leaves with stems on branches
- Remove leaves without stems directly on the branch
- Remove older twigs from perennial wood
- in this way, dormant nodes can be stimulated to sprout
- do not make a complete leaf cut too often
- do not prune young trees in this way
root cutting
A root cut is necessary to keep the bonsai small. In this way, the growth of the tree can be curbed in the long term and the growth of the lateral roots can be accelerated. In this way, root and crown can grow and thrive in a harmonious balance. If the roots are not pruned, they would be crushed in the small bonsai pot and some root parts would even die off. This would have serious consequences for the health and appearance of the bonsai. A first root cut is usually performed on a blank to fit it to its vessel. The other root cuts are made when repotting, especially to train the nebari, the visible roots above the ground.
- Apply root cutting when repotting
- ideally start in autumn, before the winter dormant phase
- repot young bonsai every 1-2 years and older trees every 4 years
- Repot exclusively indoor bonsai every year
- Carefully remove the roots from the soil
- Untangle root network with root claw
- Completely remove dead, too large and vertically growing roots
- Shorten middle roots by 1/3 to half
- Shorten lateral roots to 1-2 finger widths all around
- some root tips must remain
tool
The prerequisite for a correctly executed cut that does not damage the tree is the right tool. Special bonsai scissors and tongs are best suited for this. These are more filigree and sharper than standard tools, so that the cuts can be made more precisely. If tools that are too rough are used, there is often a risk that the branches will be unnecessarily crushed. If the cut is not made properly, the health of the bonsai suffers. High-quality tools for bonsai pruning come from Japan, the country of origin of this culture. Although the Chinese alternatives are significantly cheaper, the quality is far lower. The higher investment is worthwhile for the benefit of the bonsai.
- Japanese tools are ideal, especially for bonsai
- pay attention to sharp and long-lasting devices
- ease of use is important
- Bonsai scissors with a long neck for fine branching
- use medium-sized bonsai scissors when cutting the leaves
- use medium to large model for small to medium branches
- shorten the trunk with concave pliers
- Use bud tongs for bulges
- always close large cuts for better healing
- use a pruning saw for large bonsai
- electric tool possible for complete pruning
- cutting should never result in damaging bruises
design features
The cultivation of bonsai has been a tradition in Japan for many centuries, which is why different styles of design have developed. These also depend on the tree species and whether the bonsai is only kept indoors. Certain classic features have prevailed, which connoisseurs of the matter attach great importance to. This is the only way to achieve the desired overall aesthetic impression. However, the gardener has freedom for variable design options that correspond to personal taste. In this context, regular pruning is always the most important measure for growing and caring for a miniature tree.
- prominently developed Negari are optimal
- Trunk should be as thick as possible and have an interesting shape
- finely branched twigs and clearly structured structure of the branches
- The goal is a three-dimensional overall impression
- Miniature crown shape should match the large version of each tree species
- harmonious overall picture of branches, crown and trunk