Cultivating exotic fruits in your own garden is also possible without any problems in local regions, as the kiwiberries prove. The decorative plants are not only extremely robust, but also hardy. It is also practical that they have proven to be very frugal in terms of care. In this article we have summarized what needs to be considered when growing kiwiberries.

Difference kiwi and kiwi berries

Although kiwi berries are related to the commercially available kiwis, they are sometimes very different. Because they are much smaller and have an edible, hard shell. Nevertheless, they are in no way inferior to their larger relatives, because they impress with both their taste and their vitamin content. Its vitamin C content is particularly noteworthy. The elliptical kiwiberries grow on the vine like grapes and can be eaten fresh immediately after harvest.

  • Scientific name: Actinidia arguta
  • Synonyms: Sharp-toothed sharp pencil, honeyberry, kokuwa, kiwai, small-fruited kiwi, kiwi berries
  • Family: Ray pen family (Actinidiaceae)
  • Genus: Ray pen (Actinidia)
  • Flowering period: May/June
  • Flower color: mostly creamy white
  • Growth height: 3 - 6 m
  • Frost hardiness: up to -35 degrees

Notice: Only the well-known commercial fruits are referred to as "Kiwi", all other types fall under the term "Kiwi berries".

location

In the wild, kiwiberries grow like lianas in forests, which is why they feel at home on the edge of trees. A warm spot is ideal, because kiwi berries like it sunny in the crown area and shady in the foot area. Sunlight and heat directly affects the fruit flavor and the harvest: the more sun the kiwi berries receive, the sweeter the fruit becomes.

However, if the honeyberry is only kept as an ornamental plant, it can also be planted in cooler locations. Because it can easily cope with sub-zero temperatures, but flowers and fruits usually remain for years. However, if you are cultivating the plant with the intention of a bountiful harvest, you should grow it in a location with the following characteristics:

  • sunny to semi-shady
  • North, east and west exposure well suited
  • warm and protected
  • Planting distance at least 1 m

Notice: Kiwi berries can be planted with strawberries or lettuce. Undersowing with different types of clover, such as crimson clover, is also possible.

soil/substrate

Kiwis prefer well-drained and evenly moist soil. Accordingly, the soil should have little clay content, because this hinders ventilation. Too much sand in the soil has also proven to be critical, as it cannot hold the water. Medium-heavy soils that are also as lime-free as possible are the best choice for honeyberries.

However, it should be noted that kiwiberries are cultivated in industrial cultivation on calcareous soils. For this purpose, however, appropriate preparation of the soil as well as regular mulching and fertilizing are essential. In summary, it can therefore be said that Kiwi Berries thrive best on soils with the following characteristics:

  • permeable
  • evenly moist
  • pH: 5.5 - 6.5
  • little lime
  • moderate

Notice: "Virgin" soils have proven beneficial when growing kiwiberries.

planting

The sharp-toothed ray pen is best planted in the spring after the ice saints, as the risk of night frosts is significantly lower at this time. However, before planting the plant, it is advisable to prepare the soil appropriately. For this purpose, the soil is first loosened and enriched with humus, leaf or cattle compost. Alternatively, rotten cattle dung is also suitable. The young plant can then be used as follows:

  • Dig a planting hole about 40 cm deep
  • Insert young plant
  • Fill the planting hole with excavation
  • water well
  • Mulch the root area, e.g. with bark compost

Mulching is generally recommended, but essential for plants in sunny locations! Because the sun heats up the soil very much, which means that the roots near the surface of the earth could dry out. The mulch layer also prevents the irrigation water from evaporating, which is very beneficial for the flat-rooted plants.

support/trellis

The Actinidia arguta has a fairly vigorous growth, because it forms numerous long side shoots. It is therefore advisable to support the plant with a scaffold and keep it in shape. Either a pergola or a trellis are suitable for this. The latter is particularly popular because training on a trellis ensures a high yield. Proceed as follows to train the kiwiberries on a trellis:

  • select the strongest main drive
  • Fasten the main shoot vertically to the trellis
  • "Redirect" side shoots in the following year
  • select the strongest side shoots
  • Guide side shoots sideways along wire spans
  • remove all side shoots underneath

Fertilize

Although kiwiberries are happy about additional nutrients, this should be done with care. Because too much fertilizer favors the growth of long young shoots, which in turn are susceptible to frost and could damage the plant. It is generally recommended to supply the plants with an organic fertilizer from the 2nd year onwards from March. This releases the nutrients more slowly, but more regularly. In summary, it can be said that the following points should be observed when fertilizing:

  • from March to late summer at the latest
  • use organic fertilizers
  • best mixed under the mulch layer
  • from the 3rd year animal manure as fertilizer possible

pour

The Actinidia arguta forms a lot of green leaves, which in turn represent a large evaporation area. The plant loses a lot of water, especially in dry summers, which is why it should be watered regularly. In addition, it forms shallow roots that cannot penetrate very deeply into the soil. Their natural water intake is therefore limited, which is why they depend on irrigation. In summary, it can therefore be said that the following points must be taken into account when irrigating:

  • water regularly
  • at least 2-3 times a week
  • do not water in the midday sun!
  • Avoid waterlogging

To cut

The sharp-toothed ray pen forms numerous side shoots and grows very sprawling. Accordingly, it may well be necessary to cut back the shoots annually. This care measure has several advantages: on the one hand, the plant can be kept in the desired shape and, on the other hand, the size and quality of the fruit are improved.

The best time for pruning is summer, but the shoots can also be pruned during the absolute hibernation in January or February. In the spring, however, no pruning measures should be carried out, since the plant "bleeds" a lot at this time. The best way to cut is as follows:

  • Thin out a little from the 3rd year
  • Cut back fruit shoots to 5 buds in February
  • cut back to 2 buds after harvest
  • Cut back the leading shoots and main shoot every summer

hibernate

Kiwiberries can easily cope with temperatures down to -30 degrees Celsius. Accordingly, it is not necessary to overwinter the plants or equip them with antifreeze. Only late frosts could bother them, as they sprout again in March. However, the young shoots are not yet as robust and could be damaged by the frost. However, the plant usually survives the winter very well, especially if the following points are taken into account:

  • sheltered location
  • avoid too much direct sunlight
  • Keep soil well moist
Qwert1234, Actinidia arguta 0906, crop from Plantopedia, CC BY-SA 3.0

fertilization

There are male and female kiwiberries: the males fertilize the females, which then bear fruit. If you don't want to grow kiwiberries as an ornamental plant, but want a high-yield fruit harvest, you need a male and a female plant. Of course, several specimens can also be cultivated, whereby a male plant can fertilize up to six female plants. However, it should be noted that the male plant must be planted within a radius of 20 meters.

To harvest

If you want to grow kiwiberries with the intention of a high-yield harvest, you have to be patient, because the plants only bear fruit from the 3rd year. The harvest time can vary depending on the variety, but the fruits are usually ripe from August to October. However, the fruits should not be torn off indiscriminately, as this could damage the sensitive skin of the fruit. Storage would therefore be ill-fated, as the damaged fruits are susceptible to diseases and pests. It is therefore advisable to consider the following points when harvesting:

  • harvest like vine tomatoes
  • Cut off the fruit with the stalk
  • preferably with pruning shears
  • Fruits can be eaten immediately

Notice: The fruits can be nibbled directly, but are also ideal for further processing. The fruits are particularly popular, for example in the form of jam, compote, juice or cake toppings.

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Garden plants