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Rubber trees are very popular as ornamental plants in this country. They are quite robust and extremely easy to care for. The rubber tree is only recommended for beginners. However, it is sometimes not spared from diseases and pests. We show you the most common rubber tree diseases and how to combat them.
In a nutshell
- Mistakes in care are usually the cause of disease and pest infestation
- Waterlogging causes root rot
- Leaf spot disease is contagious
- Spider mites, mealybugs and the like are common
Avoid care mistakes
Mistakes in care and a wrong location can generally weaken the rubber tree (Ficus elastica). Then the plants are susceptible to diseases and pests. Infestation with diseases and pests can be observed particularly if the indoor climate is too dry and warm during the heating period in winter. In addition, a rubber tree disease can also occur in the wrong location. Yellow and brown leaves are not uncommon. The most common causes can be:
- too cold location
- draft
- no air circulation
- too low humidity
- waterlogging
- wrong fertilization
- water that is too cold
Below is a small list of common diseases and pests.
Rubber Tree Diseases
leaf spot disease
This disease is not a pure rubber tree disease, but can also affect other plants. This is a fungal infection that mainly affects weakened rubber trees. In the worst case, however, this disease can lead to the death of the rubber tree. symptoms are
- yellowish to light brown also black or reddish spots on leaf blade
- Shape oval to rounded
- black dot in the middle (mushroom fruit body)
- Stains are dry, brittle and hard
- very rapid spread
Control of rubber tree disease
- Isolate rubber tree because of risk of infection
- cut off affected leaves
- then spray with special fungicides
- Reconsider care mistakes and location
chlorosis
This is a magnesium deficiency. The plant can no longer produce leafy green (chlorophyll). This disturbs the photosynthetic metabolism. Chlorosis is also known as jaundice or chlorosis. signs are
- stunted growth
- yellow leaves
- dark green leaf veins
- Leaves dry from the outside in (necrosis)
- eventually leaf fall
Control of rubber tree disease
- Administration of a special magnesium fertilizer based on magnesium sulfate
- also known as Epsom salt
- long-term administration of complete fertilizer
root rot
Constant waterlogging can result in root rot. The roots begin to rot and eventually suffocate. As a result, the rubber tree can no longer be supplied with water and nutrients. If no help follows, he goes in. symptoms are
- yellow and finally brown, drooping leaves
- discolored leaf areas are moist and soft
Control of rubber tree disease
- Repot in dry, fresh substrate
- Rinse the root ball under lukewarm water
- cut off rotten roots
- apply ash or charcoal powder to cut surfaces
- Allow to dry 2 to 3 days before potting
- Pot must have drainage hole and drainage layer
Notice: To prevent discoloration of the leaves, the rubber tree should be supplied with liquid fertilizer every four to six weeks.
lice
Aphids (Aphidoidea)
These pests suck the plant sap and secrete so-called honeydew. They can be found on shoots and the underside of leaves. But without treatment, the rubber tree dies. Aphids are 3 to 7 mm in size, green, black, yellow or brown and have a proboscis.
The first signs of an infestation are
- curled leaves
- yellow leaf discolouration
- mealy coating on leaves
- leaf fall
- presence of ants
combat
- If there is a small infestation, simply shower off
- Don't forget the underside of the leaves
- Using spray solutions based on neem or canola oil
- Use of beneficial insects such as predatory mites, parasitic wasps
Scale insects (Coccoidae)
These pests also suck the plant sap and weaken the plants. However, controlling them and the associated gum tree disease can be stubborn. Scale insects are recognizable
- sticky deposits on leaves (honeydew)
- small brown pock-like growths on underside of leaves, shoots and in shoot axils
combat
- Collect lice by hand
- alternatively brush off with a toothbrush
- Wipe the leaves with a mixture of 10 ml of cooking oil, 1 l of water and a few drops of washing-up liquid
- Use of predatory mites, parasitic wasps or ladybird larvae
Notice: Dust on the leaves clogs the pores and makes breathing difficult. Therefore wipe regularly with a damp, soft cloth or shower off.
Mealybugs (Pseudococcidae)
They are also known as mealybugs or root lice. The hairy lice, which are 0.5 millimeters in size, mainly suck on leaves, stems and roots. In addition, they secrete a greasy substance that impairs the vitality and growth of the rubber tree. The first signs are yellow, curled or dried leaves and honeydew.
combat
- isolate plants
- keep cool and bright
- Use a spray mixture of 1 l water, 15 ml spirit, 15 ml paraffin oil or curd soap
- Application 2 to 3 days
- repot in case of root lice
- Use of parasitic wasps, Australian ladybirds, lacewings
Notice: A loss of leaves is usually the result of a wrong location, wrong fertilization, wrong watering behavior, too small a pot or pest infestation and an indicator of gum tree diseases.
mites
Spider mites (Tetranychidae)
They often occur when the air is too dry and the temperatures are warm, or the rubber trees have been too dry for a long time. The first signs of an infestation are
- fine webs on leaf and branch forks, as well as leaf underside
- isolated sprinkles on the leaves
- Leaf discolouration from gray to brown
combat
- shower with a strong, lukewarm jet of water
- then wrap the plant in clear plastic wrap
- leave it like that for a few days
- spider mites die due to increasing humidity
- use of predatory mites
- Check location
- Spray regularly with water as a preventive measure
Soft skin mites (Tarsonemidae)
These pests are 0.2 millimeters in size and white to yellowish in color. They also suck the sap from the leaves and shoots. The first signs can be
- small growth
- curled leaf edge
- Malformations, crippling, browning of the shoot tips and leaves
- brown deposits and corking on the underside of the leaves
- Leaf veins remain green
combat
- Spray animals with agents based on rapeseed oil
- pruning of the plants
- use of predatory mites
- Dispose of the plant if it is heavily infested
Other pests
Red spider (Panonychus ulmi)
These suckers are 0.3 to 0.6 millimeters in size and colored either red, light green or orange. First signs of presence are
- fine web on the leaves
- small yellowish to white spots on upper side of leaf
- Leaf discoloration in severe infestation from yellow to gray-green to copper-brown
combat
- shower off lukewarm
- Use of potash soap or rapeseed oil solution
- Mix 1 liter of water with a few dashes of spirit, 15 milliliters of potash soap or alternatively 200 to 300 milliliters of rapeseed oil
- spray every 3 to 4 days
- Use of predatory mites, ladybirds, lacewings
Thrips (Thysanoptera)
These are thrips, also known as blistered feet. features are
- 1 to 3 millimeters in size
- dark brown
- distinct mouthparts
- partly winged
- white to light green larvae on underside of leaf
- brown balls of feces
- stunted shoots
- growth disturbances in plants
- silver discolouration on the upper side of the leaf
combat
- isolate affected plant
- wash off with soapy water
- add 8 grams of soft soap, 3 to 4 drops of washing-up liquid, 2 liters of warm water and 4 tablespoons of cooking oil
- Spray plant every 2 to 3 days
- Dab larvae with neem oil
- Setting up glue traps
- Use of predatory mites, lacewing larvae, flower bugs, ladybird larvae
- replace top layer of soil
Fungus gnats (Sciaridae)
These small black insects, two to four millimeters in size, live in flocks on the ground. However, the adult animals do not cause any direct damage, only their larvae eat at the roots. This makes it possible for rubber tree disease to develop. A fight can be done by using
- yellow sticker
- Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris) on the windowsill
- Cover the soil substrate with a 1 cm layer of quartz sand
- therefore no oviposition possible
- alternatively use of fine mesh gauze
- Repot in clay granules
- Control larvae with nematodes
- Use of predatory mites and special bacteria
Notice: The curling of the leaves is not a typical rubber tree disease, but mostly a lack of moisture in the form of low humidity is the reason. The leaf surface is reduced and less moisture is released into the environment.
frequently asked Questions
Is it possible for a rubber tree to get sunburned?Yes. The rubber tree needs a lot of light during the day, but no direct sunlight. If it gets too much sun, brown spots can form on the leaves or they can turn completely brown. Particularly blazing midday sun should be avoided. A location on an east or west window with morning and evening sun is ideal.
Are Red Leaves the First Sign of Rubber Tree Disease?The so-called red leaves are stipules that have grown together. These form a protective cover for the growing new leaf. They are usually up to 10 centimeters long. Then, when the new leaf has fully unfolded, protection is no longer necessary and the red stipule dies and is shed.
Can rubber tree disease or pest infestation be prevented?Naturally. The rubber tree needs a warm and bright location with temperatures not below 16°C and during hibernation around 12°C with sufficiently high humidity. Furthermore, watering is sufficient, but waterlogging is to be avoided. In addition, spraying the large leaves with lime-free water or wiping them off with a damp cloth is helpful. Fertilize every four to six weeks.