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Since the panicle hydrangea 'Limelight' forms its inflorescences exclusively on one-year-old wood, it is urgently necessary to cut them once a year in spring. The most important information about pruning can be found in these instructions.
In a nutshell
- Prune limelight in spring
- Observe the cutting ban between March and September
- only use clean and sharp tools
- different cutting and training variants possible
- also clear annually
time
Due to the high frost resistance of the panicle hydrangea 'Limelight', it can be cut back in autumn. In practice, however, the early spring between February and April has proven itself. At this point, in addition to the actual pruning, all shoots that have snapped off and died over the winter can be removed.
In order to keep the stress on the plant as low as possible, the following weather conditions should be met:
- cloudy sky
- dry weather
- frost-free outside temperature
The panicle hydrangea 'Limelight' should never be cut in too much sun.
Notice: Section 39 of the Federal Nature Conservation Act prohibits the pruning of trees and shrubs between March 1st and September 30th of each year due to the protection of wild animals. Excluded from this are care measures. Depending on the extent, you should also coordinate this with the responsible nature conservation authorities.
cutting tool
Clean, better yet sterile and sharp tools are essential for cutting. Depending on the thickness of the individual branches, the following tools are available:
- secateurs
- pruning shears
- saw
Clean and sharpen pruning tools regularly to avoid damage and disease.
types of cuts
In practice, three basic variants are common for pruning the panicle hydrangea 'Limelight'. These include:
- radical cutback
- half cutback
- Standard cut
The most common type is the radical pruning. This enables controlled growth of the panicle hydrangea and keeps the plant small and compact.
Dried and faded inflorescences can be removed regularly.
Notice: If you plan to change location, the roots should be shortened proportionally in addition to the outer shoots. This enables fast rooting in the new place with constant shoot growth at the same time.
Radical cutback
In principle, it also applies to all panicle hydrangea varieties such as 'Limelight' that a strong pruning promotes an equally strong budding. In order to create an attractive appearance, it is advisable to radically cut the outer shoots to a maximum of two pairs of buds. Inside, between three and four pairs of buds can remain.
The process of radical pruning follows the instructions below:
- Cut branches to a length of about 15 centimeters
- The point of intersection should be a pair of buds
- Remove internal and dead shoots
Notice: Young plants in particular should not be cut back too much in the first few years, so as not to jeopardize their stability.
Half cut back
The intersection points for the half cut back are a lot higher than in the aforementioned variant. With this pruning technique, the volume of the plant can be steadily increased over several years to a height of two meters without increasing the risk of the interior becoming bare. The procedure is very similar to that of the radical pruning:
- Cut branches by a third, but no more than half
- Cut approach should be a pair of buds
- Cut out dead wood and internal branches
The plants shortened in the half-cut form usually show strong growth in height and width, but this is at the expense of the development of flowering shoots.
Notice: The half-cut type of cut is particularly suitable for panicle hydrangeas that Form flowers on biennial wood. This variant is therefore not recommended for the Limelight variety.
Standard cut
If you want to raise your panicle hydrangea 'Limelight' to a standard, patience and continuity are required. Already the first pruning should be used to select the future trunk of the tree. For this purpose, the strongest and straightest growing shoot is selected, which is then only slightly shortened. The other branches of the panicle hydrangea, on the other hand, are cut back to a few centimeters above the ground. Furthermore, when training a high trunk, you should pay attention to:
- Only shorten the main shoot when the desired height is reached
- remove old inflorescences
- Cut crown branches to a length of ten centimeters
- Remove further shoots growing on the trunk early
Thin out
In addition to pruning, continuous thinning of the 'Limelight' also contributes to a magnificent appearance. Similar to lilacs, the plant usually forms two new flowering shoots at the interfaces. In order to prevent uncontrolled growth in height and width, it is therefore necessary to thin out these duplications as early as possible. In principle, it is sufficient to remove one of the two new shoots.
Predestined for the clearing are:
- weak and puny branches
- shoots growing inwards
frequently asked Questions
What other measures promote the formation of many inflorescences?Despite their high tolerance to pruning, the formation of new shoots and inflorescences is supported by the administration of a special hydrangea fertilizer. This should have high levels of nitrogen and potassium, which are essential for growth.
Do the dried inflorescences restrict the formation of new flowers in spring?From November of each year, the inflorescences of the panicle hydrangea begin to die off. In many places, the brown panicles are left on the plant until they are cut back in spring, as they provide natural frost protection. Since the panicle hydrangea only develops its inflorescences on one-year-old shoots anyway, cutting the stands in autumn is purely a visual matter.
Can editing errors still be cured in the years to come?Due to the high compatibility with cutting, the most common cutting errors, such as omitted thinning and too timid pruning, can be corrected by means of a radical shortening. As a result, a fundamental new structure can also be achieved with perennial plants.