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In order for young fruit trees to bear fruit as early and richly as possible, pruning is essential. This ensures an even and well-exposed crown structure, in which many fruit-bearing shoots can develop.
In a nutshell
- important for airy structure of the crown and healthy growth of the fruit tree
- annual from the time of planting
- optimal time in early spring in mild, dry weather
- Selection and shortening of main, leading and side shoots
- Cut away all other shoots
Why is parenting important?
A tree crown needs a lot of air and light so that the fruit tree stays healthy and can set and ripen lots of fruit. To do this, it is necessary to work towards the desired shape when the tree is young, instead of cutting back the plant heavily after it has been growing unhindered for a long time. Inexperienced orchardists often make this mistake and unintentionally weaken the wood. It is better to cut the tree regularly from the beginning - this way it stays in shape and can develop strong and strong shoots.
young apple trees
Optimum time
The educational pruning is carried out annually as long as the fruit tree is still young and does not bear fruit. This is the case for many species between about the fifth and tenth year after grafting. Then you don't carry out an educational cut, but a maintenance cut.
The best time to prune the tree is as follows:
- between November and early April
- preferably frost-free day
- do not cut at temperatures below minus five degrees Celsius
- do not cut on rainy days
- optimal: dry, mild weather with overcast skies
A pruning during frost often leads to frost damage in the wood and should therefore be avoided. Pruning measures in wet weather, on the other hand, harbor the risk of a fungal infection, which can penetrate the wounds through rainwater. Therefore, a dry day is preferable, and no rainy weather should be announced for the following days either.
Apple scab is one of the fungal infections that can affect apples and pears. Fruit rot fungi settle on the olive-green to brown spots on the fruit.
Tip: Many types of stone fruit, such as cherries or peaches, can also be cut in late summer. However, winter pruning has the advantage that you can see and judge the structure of the branches better due to the lack of leaves.
tool
For pruning the fruit tree you need
- a pruning shears
- a pair of pruning shears
- a sharp knife (e.g. a grafting knife)
- a means for closing larger wounds (e.g. tree wax)
As long as the tree is young, its shoots are not too thick and can easily be cut off with small pruning shears. Pruning shears or even a saw are only used for older trees with strong branches. The knife is used to smooth cuts - this way they can heal better and are more easily overwhelmed by the tree.
Tip: All cutting tools should be sharp to make really smooth cuts. Blunt tools leave bruises that disrupt the healing process. Disinfection is also essential to ensure that no pathogens are introduced.
manual
The first training cut is the planting cut, which is carried out when the young fruit tree is planted. It is not only used for shaping, but is also intended to restore the relationship between the cut roots and the above-ground plant material, which is to be supplied with water and nutrients by the roots. To do this, proceed as follows:
- Shorten the main shoot sharply and remove the competing main shoots. These later form the trunk or the trunk extension.
- Determine three to four leading shoots (if they already exist) from which the crown will later develop.
- It is advisable to select up to three side shoots for each leader and to remove the remaining side shoots. Vertically growing shoots in particular should be removed.
- Shorten all remaining shoots, the main shoot should always be the longest.
If the planted fruit tree is still very young, it usually has considerably fewer shoots. In this case, choose a main shoot that ideally grows taller and is strong and healthy. Cut back all shoots and remove vertical or inward-growing and crossing branches. The main shoot should always be longer than all other shoots. The leading shoots should also be shortened at their tips during the following annual prunings.
Subsequent care
It is then important to smooth out larger cuts with a sharp knife and seal them with wound paste. Tree wax or clay powder mixed with a little water is suitable for this. When it is dry, the freshly pruned fruit tree should be watered vigorously and fertilized with some compost and horn shavings from early spring.
frequently asked Questions
What growth forms are there for fruit trees?Fruit trees can be raised in very different ways. Typical growth forms are above all the half and high trunks, which reach trunk heights of between 80 and 150 centimeters or 150 to 180 centimeters and need the corresponding space. On the other hand, bush trees (trunk height between 60 and 80 centimeters) and spindle bushes (trunk height between 40 and 60 centimeters) are significantly smaller and therefore also suitable for smaller gardens. Of course, shorter fruit trees are also easier to maintain and trim.
How do I train a fruit trellis?Trellis fruit is a traditional form of fruit culture that is often placed on sunny house walls. Pears, peaches and apricots are particularly well suited for this, although the structure and cut of a trellis cannot be explained in a few words. This is a science in itself, which requires special literature or an expert. The fruit-bearing shoots are tied horizontally and must be pruned in a special way.
Where can I learn how to prune trees?Proper pruning of a fruit tree is not an easy task. It is best to have a professional show you the various cutting measures. Many tree nurseries and some garden centers offer courses, which usually take place in winter. Just ask the garden center you trust or do some research on the internet. A so-called arborist can also help you.