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You can get a ready-made bonsai from a specialist store these days. However, it is more satisfying to grow the distinctive mini trees yourself from seed. With our instructions, growing bonsai succeeds step by step.

In a nutshell

  • every seed is suitable for cultivation, there are no special bonsai seeds
  • proper layering of drainage and substrate is essential
  • only after about three years is the sapling suitable for training as a bonsai

Growing bonsai - the instructions

If you have decided to grow bonsai yourself, a few steps lead to success. Precisely because there are only a handful of activities involved, the conscientious and correct implementation of each individual step is of enormous importance for subsequent success.

1. Selection of seeds

First of all, one thing should be said: Special bonsai seeds do not exist! Instead, any “normal” tree is suitable for being raised as a bonsai sapling. This fact makes the cultivation and in particular the subsequent care more complex. At the same time, however, it means enormous freedom when designing your own individual miniature tree. Depending on your individual options, you can either obtain the seedlings directly from an existing tree or purchase them from specialist retailers.

ATTENTION: Some types of seeds require frost to become viable. Collected in the wild, they first have to be stratified, i.e. exposed to an artificial winter in the freezer. This effort is not necessary in specialist shops, since the goods are usually already treated by the seller.

2. The planting bowl

Next, select a suitable planter in which to grow your bonsai. You can grow the sapling in the later shell of the tree and enjoy its growth shortly after germination. The ideal shell has the following properties:

  • Size depends on the desired size of the tree, minimum diameter around 15 to 20 centimeters
  • flat shape with low depth from about 5 centimeters
  • drainage holes at the bottom
  • flat saucer or drip tray for excess water, ideally in the same design

Tip: Choose a clay bowl with an untreated surface on the inside. This allows the clay to absorb and release moisture and thus support soil moisture regulation.

3. The drainage layer

This step is not an absolute must, but it helps a lot to get a moist but never wet substrate during cultivation. Start with the layer structure in the planting tray at the bottom with a drainage layer that drains excess irrigation water to the drainage openings in the bottom of the tray. For example, the following are well suited:

  • coarse washed sand
  • fine split
  • Tron granules (e.g.: "Seramis")

The layer thickness can be kept to a minimum, but should not be less than one centimeter. Because in the long run, part of the subsequent substrate will wash into the coarser drainage, so that with a sufficient layer thickness there is still an effective residual layer thickness.

4. The substrate

Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a "universal substrate" that can be used to grow the perfect bonsai from any tree. Instead, each tree species has slightly different needs in terms of the composition and quality of the substrate. You can either get a growing soil tailored to your tree species from a specialist dealer, or you can create your own substrate, with which the seedling will also succeed with some certainty:

  • 2 parts garden soil, ideally special growing soil for shrubs or perennials
  • 1 part washed sand (no "used" playground sand etc. due to contamination by germs and mold spores)
  • Mix the ingredients well and pour in loosely to about 1 centimeter below the edge of the bowl

Notice: The substrate will compact itself by watering and sink a little deeper into the bowl. Refrain from refilling more soil, as this will cover above-ground parts of the plant and expose them to soil moisture.

5. Bring in the seeds

Place the individual cores loosely on the prepared substrate. If you want to grow several plants in one bowl, leave a space of around 5 centimeters between the individual seeds. The closer the individual seedlings are later, the sooner you have to repot them or separate them into individual containers. Now cover the seeds with a thin layer of the plant substrate, which you sprinkle loosely. Depending on the tree species, it now takes 4 to 6 weeks before the seedling breaks through the crust and shows the first visible success in growing bonsai.

Tip: You can significantly reduce germination time by soaking the seeds in lukewarm water overnight before planting.

6. The care

The essential care on the way from the germ to the seedling is the control and maintenance of the necessary soil moisture. Be careful not to let the soil dry out as this will stall the germination process and make it difficult to restart. Excessive moisture or even waterlogging, on the other hand, can be counteracted by frequent watering intervals, each with only a small amount of water. In addition, the drainage layer introduced at the beginning supports you in this task.

frequently asked Questions

Why does the cultivation of my bonsai falter after a drought?

If the germ was already developed, it can also dry out and die if the drought persists. In this case, even intensive watering no longer helps. You have to start over with new seeds.

Do I need to repot my scion?

If you want to carry out the cultivation directly in the later planting bowl, you may only cultivate one single germ per bowl. Otherwise you will not be able to avoid moving it, since each tree should ultimately be in the center of its own bowl. Even when germinating in its own bowl, the plant must be removed as part of later training, for example to trim the roots.

How do I know if a seller has already stratified their bonsai seeds?

Usually the breeders provide their goods with a short description. Instructions are usually included on what to do before planting.

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